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Early Season Chironomid Fishing Tips

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Big Fish Small Bugs


Colorado Cutthroat on a Chironomid
I'm often surprised by the reaction I get from people who haven't either fished chironomids on stillwaters or who didn't realize you can catch big fish on these little-ish bug imitations when they see the efficacy and size-producing results of fishing them.

With that said, I typically get right down to business busting out the chironomid boxes as soon as the ice comes off. That usually coincides with the first movement of the chironomid larva (blood worms) from the bottom of the lake as they look to migrate to the surface.

In this little clip, I explain a few tactics to handle these early season chironomid situations. Here's a summary of those tips:

1. Fish blood worms closer to the bottom to start off: If you don't see any actively hatching chironomids, keep in mind that at the larval stage, the bugs can still be quite active down in the mud and muck. I fish bloodworm patterns deeper to start off.

Pupating Chironomid
2. Rig Droppers to test depth and pattern types: If you fish just one pattern at a time, you're severely handicapping yourself. Rig a bloodworm as point fly and then you can rig one or two additional droppers 2 to 5 feet apart (up from the point fly) as the depth allows. I usually narrow in on the most effective patterns as well as the most effective depth by doing this. Switch those variables until you hit paydirt. I find that while bloodworms might work better earlier in the day, the fish move up the food chain towards the surface taking more pupa as they go.

3. Indicator or No? I'm a pretty dedicated indicator user. I like them because I can set my depth accurately and dial in where the fish are and what they're eating. (Side Note:, I'm becoming more and more swayed to the Loch style fishing methods that employ different line types and flies to adjust depth -- more on that in a future post). But for this example, I'm setting my indicator to allow the flies to drop with the bloodworm a foot or less from the bottom and the droppers up from there. I then adjust the indicator level to match when I'm getting fish.

Here are some patterns and other useful info:




Anyway, that's the long and short of it for this little segment. Here's a quick video on how it comes together...





Tactical Purple Haze

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Another Phase of Purple Haze



The Purple Haze is no secret anymore, and it's becoming more and more popular in fly boxes across the country.  The Parachute Adams is arguably the most versatile fly on the planet, but in certain situations, a few little highlights of purple make all the difference.  On this fly, I really didn't do anything different other than sparse up the tail, make a more realistic post that looks more like a mayfly wing, and change the color of the hackle ever so slightly. Oh yeah...  I also added a razor sharp Fulling Mill dry fly hook for maximum fish hookiness. The fly really doesn't need a lot of introduction other than explaining those changes.  Just make sure that you watch how I tie off the hackle and whip finish because those are two techniques you can use on any parachute fly.

Tips:
Hackle: I listed the high and dry hackle on this one, but Whiting (Red Label) and Hebert Miner are great bets too. Rest assured - If we sell it, it's going to be great dry fly hackle.
Body: Change it up and tie these in various colors.  Try burnt orange, and brown...
Thorax: I use a blend of dubbing for the thorax (80% Nature's Spirit fine natural, and 20% ice dub), but that's not necessary.  Lots of people leave out the ice dub.
Hook: I used the Fulling Mill Ultimate Dry Fly hook on this, but the Firehole 419, and the Hanak H130 are also great choices.

~ Cheech




Material List

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Hook: Fulling Mill 35050 Ultimate Dry Fly Hook, Barbless - 14     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Purple     
Tail: Nature's Spirit Speckled Moose Body Hair - Medium Dun     
Body: UNI Flexx - Purple     
Thorax1: Ice Dub - UV Purple     
Thorax 2: Nature's Spirit Fine Natural Dubbing - Purple Haze     
Post: EP Trigger Point Int'l Fibers - Quick Silver     
Hackle 1: Whiting High & Dry Cape - Dark Barred Ginger     
Hackle 2: Whiting High & Dry Cape - Grizzly     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Tiemco TMC Ceramic Bobbin (Std)     
Tiemco Tungsten Carbide Razor Scissor     
Fly Tyer's Z-Ment     
Loon Ergo Bodkin     


Tubing Midge

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The Easiest Fly in the World




When it comes to fly tying, it's always a bonus to have a few flies in your arsenal that are both super effective, and easy to tie.  The tubing midge is probably the easiest fly in the world to tie, and it looks a bit more realistic than a good old Zebra Midge.  For me, the best part of this fly is that there are tons of different colors so you can get a really good match for your local bugs.  Another cool technique that isn't shown on this video is that you can use different colors of thread and see through colors of tubing to give it a cool effect.   Check out the colors of Micro Tubing here.  You can also use this tubing technique to make several other types of flies like caddis pupae, mayfly nymphs, and chironomids.

~ Cheech



Material Lists

Buckskin
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Hook: Daiichi 1120 - Heavy Wire Scud Hook - 20     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Cream     
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Beads - Gold - 1/16" (1.5mm)     
Body: Body & Rib Tubing - Buckskin - Micro (small)     


Brown Olive

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Hook: Daiichi 1120 - Heavy Wire Scud Hook - 20     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Brown Olive     
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Beads - Metallic Brown - 1/16" (1.5mm)     
Body: Body & Rib Tubing - Olive Brown - Midge     

Blood Red
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Hook: Daiichi 1120 - Heavy Wire Scud Hook - 20     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Wine     
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Beads - Blood Red - 1/16" (1.5mm)     
Body: Body & Rib Tubing - Blood Red - Micro (small)     

Purple
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Hook: Daiichi 1120 - Heavy Wire Scud Hook - 20     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Purple     
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Beads - Black Nickel - 1/16" (1.5mm)     
Body: Body & Rib Tubing - Purple - Micro (small)     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Renzetti Standard Bobbin - Ruby Tip     
Tiemco Deer Hair Scissors - Fine     
Tiemco Dual Whip Finisher     



Bucktooth Callibaetis Nymph

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Lightweight and Soft

I look at my stillwater boxes and besides my Chironomid box, the Callibaetis collection usually gets the most pattern swapping from season to season. Like any pattern you fish with, you end up tweaking it over time. I've been working more and more with similar pattern versions just mixing up colors and, most importantly, weight. 

The Bucktooth Callibaetis is a simple nymph or emerger pattern that has no added weight. It's a good dropper on a weightless rig or a rig with a weighted anchor fly. I've also used it dropped from a dry fly. A floating or intermediate line is a good way to present this type of pattern, although we've done really well lately with the RIO Midge Tip lines (currently very difficult to get in the US).

But at the end of the day, as Cheech and I have been finding, a good soft hackle selection in your callibaetis box is a must. We had some crazy good results with his Callibaetis Soft Hackle (you can see the tutorial and material list here) and a few other patterns still in the works. 
A nice Brookie that was gorging on Callibaetis nymphs

The genesis for this pattern was driven mostly out of the need to have a good buggy nymph that didn't sink too quickly. After one trip where I realized most of my Callibaetis were sinking too quickly, I added a few of these to the mix on the next trip out and found they were the ticket for times when fish were focusing on bugs closer to the surface.

Material List

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Hook: Fulling Mill 35085 Nymph Hook, Barbless - 14     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Tan     
Tail: Nature's Spirit Primo Partridge Skin, Natural     
Body: Nature's Spirit Stripped Wild Turkey Barred Biots - Callibaetis     
Hot Spot: Ice Dub - UV Hot Orange     
Thorax: Ice Dub - Olive Brown     
Hackle: Whiting 4B Hen Cape - Greenwell     



Other tools from the tutorial:
C&F Design Biot Pliers     
C&F Design Bobbin     
Tiemco Razor Scissors     

And if you're looking for more Callibaetis patterns, here are a few:







Non Copper John

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Variation of a classic



I think everyone on the planet has fished a Copper John before.  Big thanks to John Barr from Colorado for coming up with this fly, and a great selection of other fish slayers.  When I was just getting started I'd always have problems wrapping the wire for the Copper John because it never laid down perfectly and I was a savage with thread wraps.  The solution to that was to use a very flat thread in order to put a flat surface down before wrapping the wire.  I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, but you can ditch the wire altogether.  Tubing has become one of my very favorite materials due to the huge variety of things you can do with it.  In this case, I just swapped wire for tubing and it's a hit!  Tubing also comes in a wide variety of colors, so it's pretty easy to tie flies that match your local hatches.  Obviously this is nothing original, I just swapped out one material for another and it seems to work out fine.

Happy Tying!

~Cheech



Material List

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Hook: Daiichi 1530 - Heavy Wet Fly Hook - 12     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Purple     
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Beads - Metallic Purple - 7/64" (2.8mm)     
Tail: Nature's Spirit Turkey Biot Quills - Purple     
Body: Body & Rib Tubing - Purple - Midge     
Wing Case: Thin Skin - Black     
Flash: Mirage Tinsel - Opal - Medium     
Thorax: Ice Dub - UV Purple     
Legs: Whiting Brahma Hen Saddle - Mottled Gray     
: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish - Thick (1/2 oz)     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Tiemco Deer Hair Scissors - Fine     
Tiemco TMC Adjustable Double-Arm Bobbin     
Tiemco Dual Whip Finisher     



The Rainbow Warrior

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Flashy Fantastic


The Rainbow Warrior was my first commercially available fly pattern, and is still my best seller.
Rainbow Warrior
 Despite its flashy looks, it works well for selective tailwater Trout, and of course for eager freestone/pocketwater fish too.  This pattern is easy to tie and very effective.  The Warrior's flashy body and red thread hot spot don't imitate anything in particular, but that is a good thing.  Fish can mistake it for many food forms.  I find it works well in waterways with sow bugs, scuds, midge pupae, and even as a chironomid imitation in lakes.  The bottom line....don't worry about "why" fish eat it.  Just be happy they eat it.  Tie a few for your nymph box and I'm confident the Rainbow Warrior will be productive enough to keep you tying them (or buying, if you don't tie. Buy here )

Material List

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Hook: TMC 2457 Caddis Pupa, Nymph Hook - 16     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Red     
Beads: Plummeting Tungsten Beads - Nickel - 3/32" (2.3mm)     
Tail: Nature's Spirit Ringneck Pheasant Center Tails - Natural     
Body/Wingcase: Pearl Tinsel - Large     
Thorax: Wapsi Sow Scud Dubbing - Rainbow     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Renzetti Master Vise     

Bead Organizing Hack

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I've been doing it wrong all these years


This is quick and dirty. Until I finally took Cheech's advice on organizing beads, I never knew what I was missing out on. Turns out there's a much better way to organize those little suckers.

Here it is...

(oh and you can snag those tweezers from Tiemco here or the Beadzers here)

Egan's Frenchie

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A SIMPLIFIED, MORE EFFECTIVE PHEASANT TAIL


Rainbow who fell for a Frenchie
Egans Frenchie, Euro Nymph, Fly tying tutorial
Egan's Frenchie
The Frenchie is one of my go-to patterns for sure.  It's quick to tie, and fish love it.  The Frenchie is my version, or my favorite color combination of a common competition fly.  When I first entered the world of competition fly fishing I was introduced to many fly patterns that seemed too simple to work, or too flashy, gaudy & outrageous to take fish. Yet, my boxes are now adorned with similar atrocities.  Anyway, the Frenchie was one that seemed tolerable.  Though I never had great success on standard pheasant tails, I had caught a few fish on them and I'd certainly taken note of the regularity with which customers purchased pheasant tails, so somebody was getting them to work.  ;)  The Frenchie style fly I first saw used natural pheasant tail fibers for the tail and body and had a hotspot behind the bead which varied in color.  I simply found a color combination that consistently caught fish utilizing the standard "frenchie" theme.  So, for clarification, I did not invent this style of fly.  Egan's Frenchie is a variation on the original theme and the color combination sold by Umpqua is my most productive combo.  I replaced the pheasant tail, tail with Coq de Leon (for sheen, speckling and added durability), the natural pheasant tail body for dyed pheasant tail and used Hareline's shrimp pink ice dubbing teamed with a red thread collar to create the hotspot.  This color combination was solidified for me at my first World Fly Fishing Championship in Portugal, 2006.  There I won a river session (basically catching the most total centimeters of fish in 3 hours) on the River Alva using the Frenchie and Bionic Ant in a dry dropper rig.  I was sold.  The fish in every country and state I've fished since have also been impressed with this fly.  Tie some and fish them.  Your catch rate will thank you.

Material List

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Hook: Hanak H 400 BL Jig Hook - 14 (or 16)     
Thread: UTC Ultra thread 70 Denier - Red     
Beads: Hareline Slotted Tungsten Beads - Gold - 2.8mm (or 2.3mm)     
Weight: Lead Wire Spool - .010     
Tail: Whiting Coq De Leon Tailing Packs - Medium Pardo     
Body: Nature's Spirit Ringneck Pheasant Center Tails - Muskrat Gray     
Ribbing: UTC Ultra Wire - Copper - Small     
Hot Spot: Ice Dub - UV Shrimp Pink     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Renzetti Master Vise     


Uncle Ken's Mopster

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The Best Fly on the Planet... BAR NONE



Uncle Ken has taken some time out of his busy schedule of trapping coons, teaching the local girl scouts how to weld, and yelling at his wife to grace us in the fly studio.  He has been keeping this one under taps for quite a while, but he felt this was the appropriate time to share the Mopster.  In his words, "If you take this'n here out and you don't limit out in a half hour...  it ain't the fly - YOU SUCK." 

He's not necessarily one with words.  Just give the video a watch and you will see what we mean.

~ Cheech




THE RECIPE FOR THIS FLY IS CLASSIFIED....

The Iron Lotus

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A dense Baetis with a subtle hotspot

Iron Lotus
The Iron Lotus is a quick sinking imitation of a mayfly nymph.  Its slick, coated body aids in the sink rate, its subtly segmented body adds realism, its sleek silhouette matches the naturals and its gold tungsten bead and subtle red thread hotspot give just enough flash and color contrast to pique the interest of feeding Trout.  If you are a fan of dumb humor movies (like me), then you likely know where this fly got its name.  Shortly after designing this fly the movie, "Blades of Glory", came out.  My team watched "Blades of Glory" several nights while tying flies leading up to a National Fly Fishing Championship.  In the movie was a dangerous, yet wildly effective (if executed properly) skating move called the "fabled iron lotus".  I thought the name was a catchy, and kind of summed up this pattern so I borrowed it for this fly.

I tie these in size 12 to 16 using jig hooks and size 18-20 on regular nymph or scud hooks.  
Because Baetis nymphs do not have anything red or gold on them, I've tried several versions of this fly with black or black nickel beads and without the red thread hotspot, thinking picky tailwater fish might prefer a more natural looking fly.  For me, the more lifelike colorations have been completely out-fished by the original sporting red and gold.  I can't tell you why the fish prefer the hotspot and gold bead, but I can tell you they do.  Go fish...

Material List

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Hook: Hanak H 400 BL Jig Hook - 14     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Light Olive     
Beads: Hareline Slotted Tungsten Beads - Gold - 7/64" (2.8mm)     
Weight: Lead Wire Spool - .010     
Tail: Whiting Coq De Leon Tailing Packs - Medium Pardo     
Abdomen: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Light Olive     
Ribbing: 6/0 UNI-Thread Waxed - White     
Hot Spot: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Red     
Body Coating: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish - Flow     
Thorax: Arizona Synthetic Dubbing - Peacock     
Wing Case: UTC Flashback Tinsel - Black - Large     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Renzetti Master Vise     
Loon UV Mega Light     


High Country Edit

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A Quickie

Nothing grand, but a quick edit we did in between wrestling Brookies and Cutts for a few days.


Egan's Red Dart

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A FLASHY ATTRACTOR

Red Dart

The Red Dart is a design combining the best parts of a couple of old favorite fly patterns and applying current materials.  The result is a fishy attractor.  I came up with the fly at the 2011 World Fly Fishing Championships held in Bolzano, Italy.  Fish were being caught on red tags (old school style with yarn tail and peacock body), and prince nymphs.  I was having the best success on prince nymphs tied with red thread (hotspot collar) and with peacock ice dubbing instead of natural peacock for the body.  My thought was that if I combined the two flies I might find something the fish really liked.  So, the red tail from the red tag replaced the biot tail from the prince.  I used brightly dyed hackle fibers for the tail instead of wool yarn found in the old school red tag.  Peacock ice dub has replaced natural peacock for my prince nymphs so I used the flashy synthetic.  I removed the white biots normally found on the back of a prince nymph but kept the prince's brown soft hackle.  One more addition and the fly was finished.  The hotspot.  Hotspots are very common in competition flies and will likely start to take over your nymph box if you start down the hotspot road...   Anyway, the last piece of material is the sparse UV pink hotspot added right behind the bead.  I have no idea why fish eat this fly.  Though it certainly isn't imitative, it is effective, flashy and fishtastic.  The Browns, Rainbows, Marble trout and Grayling in Italy liked it, as do fish everywhere I've tried the Red Dart.  


Material List

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Hook: Hanak H 400 BL Jig Hook - 14     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Red     
Beads: Hareline Slotted Tungsten Beads - Gold - 7/64" (2.8mm)     
Weight: Lead Wire Spool - .015     
Tail: Metz Soft Hackle Feathers - Red     
Abdomen: Ice Dub - Peacock     
Ribbing: Sulky Metallic Tinsel - Opalescent (8040)     
Ribbing #2: RIO Powerflex Tippet - 6X     
Hackle: Whiting 4B Hen Cape - Greenwell     
Hotspot: Ice Dub - UV Shrimp Pink     
Wing Case: UTC Flashback Tinsel - Black - Large     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Renzetti Master Vise     


Carp Crawler

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Crawl Some Carp into Your Net!


This pattern kind of started out as a bug that was quick to tie and that I could pass out to buddies who were trying to catch carp on size 2 wooly buggers.  I also wanted to create a fly that would gently tickle the bottom as it crawled slowly through the Carpocalypse zone...  It started that way anyway... It ended up being my #1 confidence carp bug, and I have caught fish on it in all kinds of color variations.  The keys to this fly are the hook, leg placement, and weight.  The hook is a Gamakatsu SL45 which is designed to tie inverted hook flies for bonefish - I also just so happens to be an excellent carp hook.  The leg placement is critical because it they help balance the fly correctly with one leg on each side and one in the middle.  The weight needs to change quite a bit based on where you are fishing, and what depth you are fishing.  You don't want something that will plummet and hit the bottom hard.  You want it to fall at a moderate pace, and just "tickle" the bottom.  Tie some of these bad boys up and rip some bugles!

Cheech


Material List

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Hook: Gamakatsu SL45 Bonefish Hook - 4     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 140 Denier - Fl. Shell Pink     
Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes - Black - Large     
Legs: Chicone's Crusher Legs - Brown Barred Clear - Regular     
Body: Whole Squirrel Skin - Natural Fox     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Loon Water Based Head Cement System     
Loon Ergo Bobbin     
Loon Ergo All Purpose Scissors - 4"     
Griffin Montana Mongoose Vise     

GTi Caddis

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A EURO-NYMPHING ANCHOR FLY


GTi Caddis
The GTi Caddis is more imitative than most of my patterns.  It represents a hydropsychidae larvae, commonly called "net builder" Caddis.  Though a bit cheesy, GTi stands for Go-To imitation.  This pattern truly is my go-to when wanting a weighted fly that closely imitates a favored large food form of Trout.  One thing you'll notice when comparing real Hydropsyche to my imitation is that the back on the GTi does not necessarily match any of the color combinations of the real insect.  This isn't by chance.  I've spent a fair bit of time tying and trying Caddis larva imitations and I've come to learn a bit about what fish prefer in the process.  For reasons unknown to me, Trout consistently prefer this fly when tied with a shellback color that contrasts the underbody.  I've tried many imitations that more closely represent the actual colors of Caddis larvae, but the fish do not take them as well.  There is something magical about the contrasting colors.  Try it, you'll like it...  One other thing about this and other weighted flies.  Keep them thin.  It's easy to make the body of weighted nymphs obese due to the layer of lead wire covering much of the hook.  Use dubbing materials that allow you to create a very thin dubbing noodle.  Less is more with dubbing.  Wrap it sparingly, but be sure to cover the lead and thread underbody.  Hareline Haretron is perfect for making thin, tightly wrapped nymph bodies.  Tie up a few GTi's with contrasting colors (see recipe below) and fish them in your favorite Trout water.  

If you don't tie, you can buy the flies directly here.

Material List

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Hook: Hanak H 300 BL Original Czech Nymph Hook - 12     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Olive     
Weight: Lead Wire Spool - .015     
Tail: Strung Peacock Herl     
Rib 1: Umpqua Tippet Material - 6X     
Rib 2: Krystal Flash - Olive     
Abdomen: Hare-Tron Dubbing - Olive     
Thorax: Arizona Synthetic Dubbing - Peacock     
Wing Case: Scud Back - Summer Duck - 1/8"     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Renzetti Master Vise     
C&F Design Bobbin     



Tungsten Surveyor

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SURVEY THE RIVER BOTTOM

Tungsten Surveyor

The Tungsten Surveyor is one of my lesser known patterns, which I find interesting since the pattern is one of my more productive flies.  It just works.    
The Surveyor is a product of my love of Wapsi, rainbow sow scud dubbing and the hares ear.  When I found fish really liked the Rainbow Warrior, another of my confidence flies was a bead head hares ear.  With the success of the Warrior, I couldn't help but wonder how the fish would react to a hares ear tied with rainbow sow scud dubbing.  Naturally, I started tinkering with a nymph similar to a bead head hares ear by substituting the hares mask dubbing for rainbow sow scud dub.  A few versions later I had changed bead colors (gold to silver), adapted ribbing materials (gold tinsel to silver wire) and borrowed red thread, pheasant tail and pearl flash back from the Rainbow Warrior.  The result is the Tungsten Surveyor.  Fill a row in your nymph box.  If you're out of space, buy a new Tacky or Umpqua box to fill with fish catching Surveyors.

Material List

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Hook: Hanak H 400 BL Jig Hook - 14     
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Beads - Nickel - 7/64" (2.8mm)     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Red     
Weight: Lead Wire Spool - .010     
Tail: Nature's Spirit Ringneck Pheasant Center Tails - Natural     
Ribbing: UTC Ultra Wire - Silver - Small     
Abdomen: Wapsi Sow Scud Dubbing - Rainbow     
Wing Case: Pearl Tinsel - Large     
Thorax: Wapsi Sow Scud Dubbing - Rainbow     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Renzetti Master Vise     
C&F Design Bobbin     
Stonfo Comb/Brush Tool     





Carp Hybrid Variation

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Add Some "Tickle" to Your Carp Game



Carp are superfish. I have done some carping in the last several years, but it wasn't until about last year that it has become more of something that I plan to do as opposed to a plan B trip.  Carp are excellent fish to fight because they will absolutely kick you in the nether regions if you are not on your A game.  Trout are built like first generation Kia vehicles where you really have to baby them to ensure their survival, but Carp are built like military grade Hummvees with extra gas in the tank.  They have specialized scent that pick up the slightest bit of non-natural scent on your flies, they have specialized gill systems that deliver oxygen to their bloodstream more efficiently than a trout, and they have battle armor that even a missile from Kim Jong Dangus couldn't penetrate.  Yes, in my opinion they are a superfish that make a very worthy target for the fly fisher.  

If you have tried carp fishing you have probably seen, or at least heard about the Carp Hybrid pattern developed by John Montana. I think part of it's appeal is that it's a fairly basic fly that catches fish, and it uses minimal materials (chenille, peacock or chenille, and a soft hackle).  I have made a few minor changes to suit my needs (wants) and have done really well with this variation.  The most notable is the "tickler" that I added to the tail of the fly to increase movement when the fly is being gently hopped on the bottom.  Tie some of these up in various colors to see what your local carp like best. 

** Also, watch to the end to see the choice words I have for the brahma hen hackle I was trying to work with.

Cheech



*** I also like to use the Daiichi 1120 size 6-8 on this fly as well.  It stands up on it's head really well.  Feel free to substitute different materials and colors to make this fly work for you...

Material List

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Hook: Gamakatsu SL45 Bonefish Hook - 4     
Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes - Black - Large     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Red     
Tail: Ultra Chenille - Red     
Tickler: Nature's Spirit Strung Marabou - Red     
Body: Sparkle Emerger Yarn - Tan     
Soft Hackle: Coq De Leon Hen Saddle - Speckled Medium Ginger     



Other tools from the tutorial:
Cautery High Temp Finishing Tool     
Griffin Montana Mongoose Vise     
Tiemco Razor Scissors - Gold, Half-serrated     
C&F Design Bobbin     
Loon Water Based Head Cement System     

Bionic Ant

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Bionic Ant
My favorite summer-time fishing technique is to float rivers from a Fly Craft or Hyde drift boat and accurately cast ants to weary, bank-hugging Trout.  Until about 10 years ago I largely overlooked the importance of ants and beetles for summertime Trout.  Sure, I fished a lot of cicadas in early summer, hoppers late summer and even threw the odd cricket pattern but I rarely fished ants.  I've since learned what I was missing!  I find this to be true of most of my fly fishing friends and fly shop customers.  Generally speaking, we seek out hatches and otherwise nymph or toss streamers during non-hatch periods.  While all of that is fun (and can be very productive), I relish the opportunity to fish dry flies, and large ants have become my summertime go-to dries.

Getting an ant pattern that is buoyant, easy to see, and fish approved wasn't easy.  There are several patterns out there that check one of  those boxes, maybe two, but rarely all three.  The Bionic Ant has become my go-to terrestrial, and really, my go-to dry fly during non-hatch periods and often during major hatches!  Sure, the Bionic is basically an oversized sailor ant pattern with a few extra materials, but the biggest change for me regarding this pattern is its size.  Previously, I fished size 16 and smaller ant patterns.  Not any more.  Other than a few experiences with European Grayling, I don't really fish ants smaller than a 14 (Grayling have small mouths compared to Trout and although they'll gladly attempt to eat a large Bionic Ant, they rarely get it in their mouth well enough to hook them).  Anyway, my point is that I recommend you try fishing ants much larger than you'd think.  I mostly use size 10 & 12.  With a foam body, white top for visibility, small legs for movement and silhouette this pattern gets attention.  Add a nice brown, or my favorite, coachman brown, hackle to the center and you have a buoyant, visible, fish catching fly.  One final tying tip, use oversize hackle and trim it flat on the bottom.  See the video for more info.

Don't overthink this.  Remove the "hatch-matching" thoughts from your fishy brain.  Go big, be accurate with your casts, fish near overhanging brush, or along grassy banks and make sure you get a nice "plop" with your delivery of the fly.  Most important, make sure the fly is drifting free of drag.  Combine that formula with a river or stream full of Trout and you'll see why the Bionic Ant has replaced standard dry fly patterns in my fly box.


Material List

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Hook: TMC 100 Dry Fly Hook - 12 - 25 Pack (Sizes #10 - #16)     
Thread: UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier - Black     
Body: Foam Ant Bodies - Black - Large (or medium for #16, #14)     
Wing: Para Post Wing Material - Cinnamon Caddis     
Legs: Daddy Long Legs - Black     
Hackle: Whiting Eurohackle Saddle - Dyed Natural Brown (or any other brown hackle)     






Quick Tip: How to whip finish crowded heads

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No more bound fibers


Caddis pattern with deer hair and hackle
Anyone that's tied more than a few flies knows how some patterns end up being more difficult to whip finish due to hackle, hair or other fibers that can get in the way of your whip finish. You usually end up with the thread binding down some stray hackle or a few strands of antron because the whip finish wraps are somewhat difficult to control such that you can avoid those stray fibers. So here's a quick tip on how to manage your bobbin, thread control and whip finisher in order to end up with a clean fiber-free head.



Part of the trick here, in addition to the technique, is the use of a smaller sized whip finisher. I now use the TMC Dual Whip Finisher for all of my tying (both big and small patterns) because of the extra control it gives when working around tight spaces like this. The TMC Midge Whip Finisher is also another great option for this.
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High Country Fly Fishing UTV Rig

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Or, how fat guys get up the mountain...

Years ago when we made our first of many trips to what's become one of our favorite high mountain fishing destinations, we jammed into my 100,000+ mile Tacoma and beat the living hell out of it getting up the mountain. To this day I remember peering up at the steepest and most boulder-strewn section of the trail thinking there's no way my poor little truck can make it up there. Somehow it did.

But now as the truck has been retired from active fishing duty, we've moved on to more efficient means to get around in the back (ish) country. As we've built out what we think is an ideal rig to fish from these lakes and streams, we've been asked about the setup. So without getting too nerdy about it, here's a short video on what we use to get up and around the mountains where we fish.


Parachute Hopper Variation

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Parachute Hopper Variation
One of my first times ever fishing larger terrestrials for hungry trout involved small pocket water, a 3
weight, and a parachute hopper.  Instead of crashing my fly down really hard into the pools, I'd place a cast about where it should go, and the bushy parachute would gently land in it's place only to be violently slashed off of the surface.  The parachute hopper became a confidence fly for me that day, and I think it fishes completely differently from a foam fly due to how softly it lands on the water.  I remember going home and attempting to tie some, but I quickly realized that the turkey wing, the calf body hair post,  and the knotted pheasant tail fibers were pretty hard to pull off correctly.  Not only that, but after a fish or two all your hard work would be shredded by a fish.  Because of those issues, I took a long break from tying them.  Just recently I have started fishing some water that I thought would benefit from a softer landing pattern, so I started tinkering with some new materials.  Let's just say that the fish really like this new version too.

This pattern is a variation of the good old classic, and I have made some changes based on material availability and durability.  First, the body is tied out of a deer hair dubbing to add more buoyancy to the fly.  Second, (and I think most important) the wing and legs are treated with Loon Soft Head, which is quickly becoming one of my favorite adhesives for tying due to it's durability. Third, I changed out the calf body hair for EP Trigger Point Fibers because of how hard it is to get good calf body hair these days, and how awesome the EP stuff is.

Some notes on materials...  For the wing, I used a treated grouse feather in the video, and you can use partridge, pheasant, etc etc...  The classic uses turkey, so that's what we listed in the recipe.  For hackle, we used a Whiting High and Dry grizzly dyed golden straw, but any grizzly or hopperish looking color will work.  Also, you can buy pre-knotted legs from us so you say fewer bad words in front of your kids. Hopper Legs

One final thing...  You will have best results if you fish this with 2x or 3x tippet, if you fish it with light tippet, you will get it all twisted up.

~ Cheech



Material List
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Hook: Daiichi 1260 Bead-Head Specialty Hook - 8
Thread: 8/0 UNI-Thread Waxed Midge - Gray
Tail: Nature's Spirit Strung Schlappen - Dyed Over Bleach, Red
Body: Deer Hair Dubbing - Natural
Wing: Ozark Oak Mottled Turkey Tail - Select Pair
Legs: Nature's Spirit Ringneck Pheasant Center Tails - Yellow
Thorax: Nature's Spirit Snowshoe Rabbit Foot Dubbing - Muskrat Gray
Post: EP Trigger Point Int'l Fibers - Pale Morning Dun
Hackle: Whiting High & Dry Cape - Grizzly Dyed Golden Straw     
Adhesive: Loon Soft Head - Clear     


Other tools from the tutorial:
  
Stonfo Elite Rotodubbing twister
Tiemco Tying Brush


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