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5 Steps to Fly Box Organization Zen

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Get Your Stuff Together!


Chironomids ready for action
I have a sickness. Up until two or three years ago, I would meticulously and, for the most part, needlessly re-organize my fly boxes and spend time filling the holes in the boxes so that, come spring, I'd be ready to roll with all parking spots filled, organized by types, colors, sizes, species and locations. If I had a row that had open spots, I'd tie to fill it. Can't have a box with open spots, as we all know. OCD, much? Uh..yeah.

When I ended up realizing my need to organize wasn't properly balanced with a need to purge my boxes, I came to the stark reality that carrying around 30 boxes wasn't very practical.

Then, as I wrote about here, I decided it was time to pare down the "varsity team" flies and stick with patterns I was actually using. That little article has some good information on how to successfully make the purge, however the focus here will be ways to effectively organize those flies once you've gotten control of them.

So like I said, I was a serial re-organizer. As I did this for years and years, I came up with some things I would consider and that ended up working for me. Everyone will be different, but here are the top 5 things I'd recommend you focus on:

Dry fly "hatch" box
1. Group by Fly Types - not insect or baitfish species. Out of all the methods to organize flies, I think the most useful is to think about your boxes first by fly types instead of just insect or baitfish species as is often a common practice. This helps in a few ways. First, it helps you pick the best type of box for the situation. You might find dry flies fit into a better box than your nymphs or your streamers need a different box than your buggers. The biggest advantage is that you'll be forced to cut down on the number of patterns per pattern type but be able to cover more bases with fewer boxes focusing on the most effective patterns. When I had a Baetis, PMD, Caddis and Midge box separately, I had more styles of patterns than I needed because I'd fill them all up. Then, I'd ultimately find a day when I saw a caddis hatch and only had my midge box. Now, I have a nymph box for hatches and a dry fly box for hatches -- they both include a limited number of pattern types to cover species, color, size etc. If I'm on a river or a lake and there's any insect activity, I'll be covered with only two boxes, as opposed to 4 or 5. Sure, I have to cull the herd every now and again, but those flies are the varsity team for sure.
Stillwater Nymphs

2. Group by Water Type. This is related to the previous item, but more specifically, you can further break down the organization by fly types and then into where you'll be fishing those flies. You might have nymph patterns for rivers and then nymphs for stillwater. Or you might have surf baitfish patterns vs flats baitfish patterns. That doesn't mean you need separate boxes, but if you're going to spend a day out on the lake, you might not need your Baetis nymphs, but you'll need some damsel or callibaetis nymphs. When I organize it by water type, I can make that call on what boxes to bring depending on where I'm going to fish that day.

3. Label Your Boxes. Definitely not a novel concept, but besides sticking some labels on your boxes or writing on them with a sharpie for quick identification, you can also tack on your name and phone number in case they get lost.

4. Spend the time to organize and fill. Regardless of how you organize the boxes, you need to plan and spend time actually organizing and re-filling them. For me, this usually happens during the cold days of winter. Either way, you can make "to tie" lists and set aside the time to tie and to organize the boxes or it won't get done. On the back end, it's also a good idea to note down, while on the water, any holes you have in your boxes. I had a day where my yellow sally patterns weren't quite cutting it, so the next year, I came prepared with a new section of new flies in the box for those specifically.

5. Create "Overflow" boxes. If you're like me, you still have trouble narrowing down patterns to fit in your go-to boxes. In order to satisfy my fear that I'll be on the water and not have the right fly, I'll carry a few over-flow boxes that contain extra varsity patterns as well as more of the one-off patterns that I tie just in case. I don't usually carry these on the water with me but rather keep them in the car or a bag in the tent etc. Worst case scenario, I at least have them available should I run out or need something I don't have. Truth is I rarely use these boxes but it's nice to have them just in case.

And I'm sure next year, my approach could be different, but I must admit this methodology has held really firm for the past five or so years, so maybe I've settled down going forward. In any case, find what works for you and hopefully these suggestions will come in handy.

Saltwater Gurgler

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Topwater fish magnets




If you are a topwater fan you should pay attention to the simple gurgler patterns that are so popular with saltwater anglers.  I have dabbled with Gartside Gurglers and other variations of mice tied in "gurgler" style, but it wasn't until I started seeing the awesome patterns out there that I really focused more time on them.  If you are on Instagram do yourself a favor and go follow Nick Davis with @239flies.  His flies are some of the cleanest and most innovative flies I have seen for a while, and they can be modified for application for multiple species.  This gurgler is tied "gangster" style, and no doubt I got a lot of inspiration from Nick on this tie.  One of the key components that I use on this is Maradub dubbing for the body of the fly.  This dubbing is a great way to create just the right amount of bulk, yet leave lots of squiggly squirmies (marabou) coming out of it.  

The cool thing about gurglers is that they have a very distinct action in the water, and they can be tied in thousands of color combos and configurations.  Some of the gurglers I have been playing with are:

White/Blue

Hook: Daiichi 2546 #4-2/0 BUY HERE
Thread: MFC Premium 3/0 - White BUY HERE
Tail: Extra select craft fur - Kingfisher blue/white BUY HERE
Body1: Palmer chenille - Pearl BUY HERE
Body2: Schlappen - White BUY HERE
Body3: Salty snack dubbing - white BUY HERE
(alternate for Body3: Maradub - Polar bear) BUY HERE
Foam: Two-tone fly tying foam - White/blue BUY HERE
Head: Bruiser blend dubbing - Sky blue BUY HERE




Tan/Orange

Hook: Daiichi 2546 #4-2/0 BUY HERE
Thread: MFC Premium 3/0 - Light brown BUY HERE
Tail: Extra select craft fur - Tan/orange BUY HERE
Body1: Palmer chenille - Root beer BUY HERE
Body2: Schlappen - Tan or Fiery Brown BUY HERE
Body3: Salty snack dubbing - Tan BUY HERE
(alternate for Body3: Maradub - Tan) BUY HERE
Foam: Two-tone fly tying foam - Tan/orange BUY HERE
Head: Bruiser blend dubbing - Tan BUY HERE


Tie some up, and make sure you modify some for our freshwater friends too.

~ Cheech



Recipe for the fly in the video:

Tan/Pink

Hook: Daiichi 2546 #1/0 BUY HERE
Thread: MFC Premium 3/0 - Pink BUY HERE
Tail: Arctic fox tail hair - Tan BUY HERE
Hot Spot (spawn sack) - Cactus chenille - Hot orange BUY HERE
Eyes: Epoxy mono crab eyes - Tan BUY HERE
Body1: Palmer chenille - Pink BUY HERE
Body2: India hen cape - White BUY HERE
Body3: Maradub - Bonefish betty BUY HERE
Foam: Two-tone fly tying foam - Tan/pink BUY HERE
Head: Ice dub - UV tan BUY HERE


If Flies Were Football Players

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Starting Lineup




I'm a huge fan of Football, and Curtis and I always talk about our flies as "starters" vs. "JV players." Now that that football season is coming to a close, we can go back and reflect how the season played out and how our teams need to adjust to be better next year.  I'm a Raider's fan so I'm pretty much hosed any way I look at it.  BUT... If flies were football players, which ones would be your starters?

Here's my list

Offense:

Grumpy Frumpy
QB:  Grumpy Frumpy - (tutorial here) It's a flashy fly that is the highlight on my box, and most of the attention goes to it when I show my box to someone.  It by far is the most developed pattern I have, and a lot of effort went into getting it where it is.  I can also imagine it taking control of a box and bossing everyone around.

RB: Bling Leech - (tutorial here) The name of the game for this fly is to have more bling and flash than the rest of the flies in your box... and the element of being a very effective fish slayer - enough to piss off ninjas everywhere.  This is a quick tie with maximum flash that will bring fish out of the depths to try to stop it in it's tracks.  Just don't ask it to talk to the media - it's "all about that action boss."

WR:  Aero Baetis and Chimera - (tutorials aero, chimera) The sleek and fast Aero Baetis is my #1 reciever because there is
Brookie and Chimera
nothing about this fly that says "slow" and the fish come out and slam it because it will be gone in an instant.  My slot receiver is that damn Chimera that Curtis is so deadly with.  This fly really shouldn't work due to it not really looking like any food source, but it is effective over and over again, and it pisses me right off... Just like Wes Welker.  I hate you Wes Welker.

TE:  Masked Marauder - (tutorial here) This dude is a piece of art, but still big and tough enough to punch a big ol' brown trout in the mouth.  It has enough finesse to work on picky slack water fish, and enough brute strength to piss off a bank feeder waiting for something meaty.  I can't guarantee that this Tight End won't go to a night club, take off his shirt, and act like a total D-bag...

Petite Sirloin Stonefly
OL: Petite Sirloin Stonefly and Blingnobyl Ant - (tutorials petite, blingonbyl) These stoneflies are much bigger and fatter than they ought to be, but they are vital weapons for making sure that every fish in the stretch gets caught.  The Left Tackle is actually the Blingnobyl Ant because it's more effective than the Petite Sirloin and it knows it.  Kind of a diva... A very large, overpaid diva.

FB: Bead Head Hare's Ear - (kicked up tutorial here) This fly has no frills, no fancy legs, glitter, or epoxy.  This fly has paved the way for many other nymphs, and it can plain punch a fish right in it's fat face.  When the Hare's Ear comes in to the game, you know it's good for at least a couple fish.

Defense:

Alpha Predator
DE: Alpha Predator - (tutorial here) This fly is larger in size than your run-of-the-mill baitfish pattern, and can be tied to hunt down and punish everything from slow moving dumb fish to the fastest fish in saltwater.  It will chase them all down and put a serious sized piercing in their lips.  Big, check.  Fast, check.  These are the freaks of the bench.

DT: Lunch Lady - (tutorial here) The Lunch Lady never was a kind creature.  This bug is chunky in the front, chunky in the back, and has the disposition of a hungry grizzly bear right after hibernation.  The last fish I caught with it got stomped on with both hooks so I had to suspend it for two trips.

Cutthroat that KILLED a Sick-ada
LB: Sick-ada - (tutorial here) This bug has the agility to fly through the air and float on top of the water, but it still maintains it's solid construction to make a heavy meal for a hungry trout.  This bug has extra layers of armor and beady eyes that make it look evil, so it enjoys pain and causing pain to others.

SS: Mailman Green Drake - (tutorial here) This one does a good job of surveying the river to make sure that each fish in the run has paid the price.  It will either cover ground, or make the fish cover ground to come eat it.  What's that fish?  You want to get punched in the face?  Much obliged.

FS: Low Fat Minnow - (tutorial here) Now the Low Fat Minnow isn't quite on the scale of meanness as the Alpha Predator or the Mailman, but it cleans up any of the fish that the first two couldn't stop.  The Low Fat Minnow is a sleek chunk of protein that covers water very quickly and effectively.  As one of the most effective flies in the universe (except for maybe parts of Mars,) this is the bug that you need playing rover for you.

CB: Ninja Pupa - (tutorial here) This one is a complicated creature that can be a bit hard to understand.  As  full
Ninja Pupa
fledged ninja, it can sneak up on any fish and pick em' off right in their own house...  The issue I have had with this fly is that it has emotional outbursts at the end of fishing season, but it always backs it up the next year.

Special Teams:

P: Griffith's Gnat - (article here) You know this bug.  EVERY single fly rotation has to have one because if all of your other stuff doesn't work you know that your GG has a slim chance to get you back into the game.  It's not the most durable fly in the world, but it's probably worth having in your box.

Bonneville Cutthroat with an appetite for Fripples
K: Fripple - (tutorial here) This fly looks out of place in a fly box full of other nice and well proportioned flies, but it definitely has it's place.  It's pretty delicate and might not be able to take the beatings the other flies can, but it secretly leads the whole box in scoring.  It's dead effective and you can't leave home without a few.

Long Snapper: Wooly Worm -  This bug is basically just a glorified Griffith's Gnat that is a little bit tougher.  It's usually just sitting the sidelines for show, but can come in handy at certain times during the trip.

Returner: Foamerger - (tutorial here) This fly is the fastest tie that we have on the bench, and you can do a dozen of them in record time.  If things line up just right, it is also a bona fide assassin on the river.  This unsuspecting fly in a small package can put fish on the board in a hurry.

Please comment if you have any flies that you would like us to consider for a starting spot.

~Cheech

Hooks - A Video Review

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It's all about that point boss

The Allen J100BL on the "Snorkel Stone"

Some of the most common questions we get are about hooks and why we choose one over another.  Also, there are a lot of questions about the Allen hooks that we use quite often, specifically about how the quality is.  We decided it would be best to do a video review to explain it all...





Selling Flies?

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Can you make money in fly-eat-fly world?

Low Fat Minnow - Perch Flavor


Here is a question that I want you to keep in mind as you read this, and I ask you all because I have heard this debate a million times.

Can you make money selling flies?

Uncle Ken's famed Fatty Longtail
The answer is yes and no depending on how you look at it...  The idea for this article came because I just got a bunch of spam comments in our Instagram feed from an account that was offering "top quality""hand-tied" (that one always gets me) flies.  It wasn't even the Kenyans this time!!!  I always click on the profile link to see what kind of "top quality" we are working with here.  Well, their version of quality was certainly their own opinion, and the flies looked like they had been lashed together Uncle-Ken style with Mee-Maw's sewin' thread.  That's all fine and good, and I appreciate his fervor for being fly tying entrepreneur, but he probably won't sell many flies.  

I started selling flies about 12 or 13 years ago, and I would let them go for $.75 each to an end
"Yes, I'd like 4 dozen muddlers for $36.."
customer, and I'd sell them much cheaper than that to the local Orvis shop that would cycle through some of my favorite stillwater patterns.  I could replenish my supply of hooks and hackle enough to keep the hobby going strong so it was kind of a way to keep the fishing funds separate from the mortgage/family funds.  It got to the point where I was starting to get overwhelmed with orders so I thought I'd be bold enough to raise my prices to $1 per fly.  Long story short, I realized that I was going to set my prices at the point where it was worth it for me to sit down and tie and my prices have gradually gone up as I have gotten more busy.  The most I have sold a single fly for was $27, and it was worth every penny for both me and the customer.  As a custom fly tyer, it's important to realize that you shouldn't be trying to compete directly with a shop, and your prices should be based on your own personal factors.

Lunch Ladies - Not cheap to tie or buy
Last year I was sitting at a fly tying expo, and I was putting the finishing touches on a Lunch Lady streamer pattern when a young guy offered to buy the fly from me.  He knew that I was tying it as part of an order that I was filling so he at least offered to buy it from me instead of just walking off with it... I told him that the fly was $10, and he said "Uhhh, no - I only need one of them." When I told him that the fly was $10 each, he was completely blown away and almost wanted to argue with me.  He said "Well what makes that fly so expensive??" Luckily I didn't have to respond because the other guys at the table kindly "educated" him.  Another customer who was communicating through email was somewhat baffled by a quote that priced some specialty nymphs at $3.25 each.  He asked "So how am I supposed to save any money by buying flies from you?" I was probably too diplomatic in my reply.  Custom tyers aren't there to save you any money or to provide a discount.  They are there to give you a custom, durable, and tested fly that most likely can't be found anywhere else.  Buying custom flies is kind of walking into a car dealership and asking for the decked out Escalade with custom interior, audio video equipment, rims, etc. -  yet expecting to pay the same price as a Kia Santa Fe.  Hey a car is a car right?  I'm typing this out right now because I have had to explain this on more than one occasion (As you read above). A fly is a fly right?  Say this to Brent Dawson and then hold the phone away from your ear whilst in-taking a steady voluminous stream of profanity...  (You know we love you Warpath)  Guys like Brent Dawson of Warpath Flys, Nick Davis of 239 flies, Pat Cohen of R U Sperfly, Rich Strolis, and Mike Schmidt of Angler's Choice Flies are guys who can offer these Escalades through years of tying experience and research.  Their experience and research 100% warrants the price they reflect because these guys are the top of the line tyers in our industry. 
*I undoubtedly left off a lot of great tyers from this list...  Please reprimand and correct me in the comments below.  

So now that I have derailed - let me get back to the question at hand.  Can you make money tying flies?  Yes!  if you go about it the right way.  There is a reason why these custom guys burn up hours on the vise, and it's not for that "feel good feeling" that they get from other guys catching fish on their bugs.  It's because they can make money.  I have heard lots of guys talk about how hard it is to make any money tying flies, and that the best you can expect to make per hour tying is between $5 and $6.  Sure, if you are tying Prince Nymphs and Pheasant Tails for you local shop for $9 per dozen.  If you are serious about making fly tying a reliable source of income it really pays to find a network of customers that you can sell to directly, or a shop that will pay you what your flies are worth because they have customers who will pay an appropriate markup in price.  Whether through social media, a website, or flyers on telephone poles, you need to have a network of people who will buy your flies.
#32 Bunny Midge in Abe's nose
 The other kicker is that you have to give them a reason to buy from you and not the local shop or another tyer.  Again, the Prince Nymphs and Pheasant Tails probably won't get you very far in this arena.  You need to sell your own special sauce that they can only get from you.  When I first started selling flies, everyone knew that I tied proportionate midge dry flies down to #32.  I tied those things until my fingers bled, and that was really the first time I started thinking outside the box.  While it wasn't the most complicated fly to tie, no shops sold them and fish ate them like crazy.  Win for me.  The mighty Bunny Midge opened the door for all the whacked out stuff that you see me sell today.

Another critical part of selling flies is to have a goal in mind.  Why do you want to sell flies?  Is it to pay for gear? Is it to pay your mortgage? Is it for the satisfaction of other people using your flies?  What non-tyers sometimes don't realize is that tying flies for hours and hours is very draining!  Rewarding and fun, but it takes the wind right out you so, in my opinion, there better be a significant reward at the end of it.  I think I have fallen into each of the above categories at one time or another, but having a goal really helps me be motivated to tie, and it also helps me set my prices accordingly.  

Grumpy Frumpy - Fish and bin appeal
Quality is king.  Back to the ads on my Instagram account that pitched poorly tied flies.  I hear guys say all the time "but they catch fish." Well... lots of flies catch fish.  Remember that you have to give the end user a reason to buy from you and not from a shop.  If your Wooly Buggers are tied with the hackle backward, and a trimmed tail - sure they will catch fish, but they probably wont catch fishermen.  There I said it.  Your flies need to put an awful beat down upon any fish that dares show his face in the presence of your fly, BUT, it also needs to have "bin appeal." Yes, bin appeal is what catches fishermen, and in other words, that is what makes them buy your fly instead of others.  Tying a nice looking, well proportioned fly usually also means that the fly is well tied and won't unravel after a few casts.  So yes.  Tie good looking flies.  As Charlie Craven said once when I was watching him give a presentation, "If it were only about catching fish, why not just throw wads of cheese," or something to that effect.

Another way to monetize your tying is to work with a fly manufacturer who will mass produce and copyright your flies and pay you a royalty.  This really won't make you independently wealthy, but the more patterns you can get in with a company, the better your chances of making more serious money.  This usually involves sending samples to the manufacturer and hoping that your stuff is unique enough to make it through the selection process.  Then, depending on how much following your pattern has, it takes a while for your fly to gather traction.  It's kind of cool see your flies being sold across the country, but it's even better to get a check for work that you did literally 10 years ago - even if its not ever going to get you to retirement status.

The main point that I wanted to get across with this post is that you absolutely can make money selling flies, and it's something that you should at least try out if you have been pondering what it would be like.  Don't listen to the naysayers that tell you that you will only ever make $5 per hour and that the IRS will come haunt you in your sleep because you didn't have your taxes set up correctly.  Chances are, if you try it for a while, you will quickly realize if it's worth the time and effort to slave your life away at the vise to make a couple bucks.  If anything, you will have a better appreciation for the prices that custom fly tyers demand.

~ Cheech


Articulated Trout Slider

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Warm up your deer hair and razor blades

Trout Mega Slider


For the past few months I have really been on a saltwater kick, but little did I know that the slider pattern would punch me straight in the teeth!  I'm addicted to tying these, but more importantly, I love how they look in the water.  They are almost like a suspending bug that doesn't plummet, but slides down through the water column.  It also happens to have a pretty bulky head to help it push insane amounts of water if you are in to that type of thing.  The cool part about this fly is that the head can be attached to about any style of fly you want as you see with our complex twist slider.  The body of this fly is gold ice dub (sparkle minnow style), and I'll be attaching this style of body to many more of my patterns!  Hope you enjoy the video.  Keep your razors sharp and your deer hair fat!

~ Cheech

Recipe:

Hooks: Daiichi 2461 #1/0 (front) and #1 (back) (BUY HERE)
Thread: Veevus 10/0 white and Veevus 200 denier GSP (BUY 10/0, 200D)
Eyes: Barbell eyes - 5.5mm red (BUY HERE)
Tail: Marabou - Tan and white (BUY HERE)
Body: Ice dub - Gold (BUY HERE)
Hook connection: Articulation wire and Articulation beads (BUY WIRE, BEADS)
Head: Deer belly hair - White and camel (BUY HERE)
Throat: Bruiser blend Jr. - Tan (BUY HERE)

Tools Used:

Griffin Montana Mongoose vise (BUY HERE)
Rite Bobbin - Standard (BUY HERE)
Dr. Slick All-In-One Dubbing Brush (BUY HERE)
Peak Hex Hair Stacker - Magnum (BUY HERE)
Wasatch Fur Comb (BUY HERE)
Double Edge Razor Blades (BUY HERE)


*note...  I may have been under the influence of Mt. Dew and beef jerky while talking about hook sizes.  The back hook is a #2 and the front hook is a #1/0

The Tube Fly Primer, Part 1: Why Tubes?

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Tying Has Gone Down the Tubes


A few years back, based primarily on the need to find a way to huck big bass poppers with my fly rod
Tube fly, popper style
without having to worry about gigantic hooks, I made the dive into tube flies. Once I started messing around with tubes, it really opened a whole new world of tying for me and has helped me produce some effective patterns over the years. And given some of the factors we'll go into here, it's definitely a tying method you should not be ignoring.

Besides an excuse to buy more fancy tools and materials, there are some definite advantages to tube flies -- regardless of the specific patterns you'll be whipping up.

First off, and this is the biggest advantage from my vantage point, you can tie a fly with a much bigger and longer profile without adding the weight and worry of a large hook. For me, it was the need to cast some bigger salt-water poppers. When I got into the size hooks that would match the big poppers, I was looking at something that turn my popper into something akin to a hand-grenade (not to mention the cost of the bigger hooks). With tube flies, on the other hand, you can really mix and match the sizes and hook types since you're not constrained to have to build the fly onto the hook itself. You can create enormous profile flies and pair them up with smaller hooks that will still pierce flesh and land even the biggest fish.

Baby brown trout tube fly


The second advantage you might see is the "leverage factor". (And I know this is a somewhat arguable point, but let's roll with it anyway). Let's say you're fishing a big streamer or even a big steelhead pattern with a very long shank hook. A basic rule of physics shows us that the longer the shank, the more leverage there will be for the fish to fight as you bring it in. Tube flies, on the other hand, are most often short-shanked thicker wire hooks that reduce the amount of leverage any fish might gain on you with bigger patterns.

Purple Midnight Fire Streamer

Not only will the shorter hook shank reduce leverage, the hook will often separate from the tube when fighting a fish, which keeps it out of some gnarly mouthfuls of teeth. Even if the tube doesn't separate from the hook, you can easily slide it out of the way and remove the hook without fear of damaging a nicely tied steelhead or salmon fly in the process.


Weedless hook on a Deflectinator
Another advantage I've found is the ability to use different style hooks -- especially weedless style bass hooks -- that allow me to mix and match hook styles to a given condition while my pattern remains the same. With this handy trick, I can tie on a wacky weedless drop shot hook and voila, my fly is instantly weedless. This applies to streamers, poppers, big nymphs or anything else you might want to use as a weedless pattern. You can also use this hook-swapping method to "weight" your patterns differently by using a heavier or lighter hook as needed.

And last but not least, because I can keep my tube flies stored without hooks, I can literally stick a pack of hooks and a bunch of tube patterns in my pocket and not worry about having to throw them into a box. In fact, my tube fly "box" is officially a ziplock bag that I can store almost anywhere without taking any space. Cheech makes fun of my "box".

Baby bluegill tube fly


Now that you're familiar with some of the concepts, part II will take a look at the tying aspect (which is all we really care about anyway, right??). Stay tuned...

The Huevo Frito: Alevin Trout or Salmon Pattern

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A High Protein Streamer


Alevin Fly Pattern
A few years ago, a friend of mine was talking about an effective yet under-used style of fly pattern he uses each spring in waters where we fish for Brown and Rainbow Trout. Stories of gigantic hungry fish smashing this little helpless immature trout/salmon fry got me curious enough to mess around with a few patterns.

However, it wasn't until recently that I got a hankering to tweak some of my first versions of an Alevin (pronounced "aləvən") that I drummed up this little guy.

I call it the "Huevo Frito" (fried egg), in part cuz it's got an egg sack and in part because my nickname has been "Frito" for a good portion of my life. Makes sense but really doesn't matter I guess.

Anyhoo...the kicker on this pattern is the tungsten bead/egg sac that will be tied in "belly scratcher" style and keep the super-sharp saltwater/streamer hook riding hook-point up. And it wouldn't be complete without all the Loon UV goodness we apply to it. From the fly paint to the UV Clear fly finish, Loon's got it dialed in.

You can either fish it streamer-style or even fish it Euro/Czech nymph style giving it a jerk or two as you drag through the drift.

So here it is:

Material List

Hook: Daiichi 2546 #4 -- Buy Here
Thread: Veevus 10/0, White -- Buy Here 
Eyes: Fish Skull Living Eyes, Wind, 3mm -- Buy Here
Egg: 3.8 mm tungsten, Orange -- Buy Here
Under-Body: Pearl Tinsel, Large  -- Buy Here
Body: Arctic Fox Tail, White -- Buy Here
          & Flash 'n Slinky, Bronze Back  -- Buy Here
Egg Yolk: Loon UV Fly Paint, Orange  -- Buy Here
Egg Sac: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish, Thick -- Buy Here
Coating: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish, Flow  -- Buy Here



Articulated Complex Twist Bugger

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If it's good, add more meat


Articulated Complex Twist Bugger
Articulated Complex Twist Bugger
I have to say that it's pretty rewarding to see all of our followers posting their successes with

Complex Twist Buggers (CTB).  That technique has become more of a mainstay on my desk, and I have even modified some of my other patterns to incorporate that body style.  Shortly after I tied the original CTB I whipped up an articulated version with a much bulkier front half, and the results have been pretty good!  Instead of schlappen I decided to put a full plume of marabou into the loop.  I thought that the fibers would bind up something fierce, but after a slight tease with my trusty metal comb, the marabou spun up and wrapped up the shank just right.  Because of the number of materials used in this fly it's quite possible to make some insane color combinations to match the local forage.  Spin these up and post your results on our social media feeds.

~ Cheech

Recipe:

White/Tan/Gold

Front Half:
Hook: Daiichi 2461 - #1/0 (BUY HERE)
Thread: UTC 140 - Tan  (BUY HERE)
Cone: Brass Cone Head - Fl. pearl white (BUY HERE)
Tail: Marabou - tan and white (BUY HERE)
Body1: Lucent Chenille - Gold UV - small (BUY HERE)
Body2: Polar Chenille - Gold UV (BUY HERE)
Body3: Marabou - Tan (BUY HERE)
Collar: Ice Dub - UV Tan (BUY HERE)

Connection:

Articulation wire (BUY HERE)
Articulation beads - Nuclear corn (BUY HERE)


Back Half:
Hook: Daiichi 2461 - #1 (BUY HERE)
Thread: UTC 140 - Tan  (BUY HERE)
Tail: Marabou - tan and white (BUY HERE)
Body1: Tinsel Chenille - Gold (BUY HERE)
Body2: Polar Chenille - Gold UV (BUY HERE)
Body3: Schlappen - White (BUY HERE)
Collar: Ice Dub - UV Tan (BUY HERE)

_______________________________________________

Copper Olive 

Front Half:
Hook: Daiichi 2461 - #1/0 (BUY HERE)
Thread: UTC 140 - Olive (BUY HERE)
Cone: Brass Cone Head - Copper (BUY HERE)
Tail: Marabou - Med. olive and light rust (BUY HERE)
Body1: Lucent chenille - Olive small (BUY HERE)
Body2: Polar Chenille - Olive copper (BUY HERE)
Body3: Marabou - Med. olive (BUY HERE)
Collar: Ice Dub - Brown olive (BUY HERE)

Connection:

Articulation wire (BUY HERE)
Articulation beads - Electric Lizard (BUY HERE)


Back Half:
Hook: Daiichi 2461 - #1 (BUY HERE)
Thread: UTC 140 - Olive (BUY HERE)
Tail: Marabou - Med. olive and light rust (BUY HERE)
Body1: Tinsel Chenille - copper (BUY HERE)
Body2: Polar Chenille - Olive copper BUY HERE)
Body3: Schlappen - Olive (BUY HERE)
Collar: Ice Dub - UV Brown olive (BUY HERE)


Tying vs. Buying - Which costs more?

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Creativity meets economics


This fly sells for $10


There are a lot of reasons why people tie flies.  I really like the artistic outlet that I have on my vise and the ability to create basically anything I want.  Others might like the relaxation tying gives them, they might only tie to re-supply their standard fish catching patterns, or they may do it to save money.  I have heard this a million times that you will never save money by tying your own flies, and for me specifically (if I didn't sell them) I'd say that I would definitely NOT save money no matter how I try to justify having about 25,000 hooks on hand.  This being said, there is definitely a way to save money on flies if one is fairly methodical about it.

Before I get into the actual money saving part, I'll preface this by saying that if you only buy flies you are limited by what is in the shop, or what is available online. Period.  If you want to so much as change the marabou color on a Wooly Bugger you are running into asking a custom fly designer to do it for you which will most likely cost you some cash money.  So - by relegating yourself to only purchasing flies, you are limiting yourself to the creativity of others.

Before I go all "Curtis" on this and put my Nerdalysis hat on let's set some parameters on the cost of a fly (in very broad general terms).

  • Junk fly - $0.75 (Congrats, you just purchased a zebra midge from Africa.  Yes it will still catch fish... after you Zap-a-gap the hell out of it)
  • Normal run-of-the-mill fly - $2.00 to $3.50 (Typically from a reputable fly distributor i.e. Rainy's Umpqua, MFC etc.)
  • Specialty fly - $3.50 to $15.  These are more specialized ninja patterns that include big articulated meat and bugs from custom tyers.
For the sake of simplicity I'll use $2.00 as a general reference for what a fly costs (and this is probably a low estimate.)

The kicker in making the jump into tying flies is the sunk cost that comes with the purchase of a vise and tools.  I guess a nice dry fly hackle really ups the initial price of tying dry flies as well, but the hackle will literally last you for thousands and thousands of flies.  For the beginning tyer there really isn't a huge "need" to buy all of the top-of-the-line vise and tools, but it certainly won't hurt to have top quality stuff to tie with.  This being said, in my example I'll use a vise and tools that you won't want to throw away after the first month of tying like the tools that many of the starter kits come with.

Vise: Griffin Montana Pro - $78.00
Scissors: Dr. Slick All Purpose - $15.00
Bobbin: Griffin Supreme Ceramic - $12.50
Whip Finisher: Dr. Slick Stainless Whip Finisher - $7.00
Total price: $112.50

So this list represents "needs" and not "wants." In order to get started with tying flies, these are the things, in my opinion, that a new tyer needs to start off on the right foot and not want to throw a vise (or bobbin) through a window.

Now lets get down to the nitty gritty.  Let's say that a new tyer wants to start out tying wooly buggers and pheasant tails, and I'm going to list (generously) enough materials to tie 25 flies:

Wooly Bugger
Wooly Bugger:
Hook:  Allen S402 #6 (pack of 25) - $3.39
Thread: UTC 140 - $2.00
Tail: Marabou - $3.50
Body: Chenille - $2.50
Hackle: Schlappen - $7.00
Total price: $18.39





Pheasant Tail
Pheasant Tail:
Hook:  Allen D103S (pack of 25) - $3.39
Bead: Tungsten beads (pack of 25) - $3.75
Thread: UTC 70 - $2.00
Tail/body/wingcase: Pheasant tail fibers - $2.75
Thorax: Peacock herl - $3.25
Ribbing: UTC ultra wire - $1.45
Total price: $16.59

So if a new tyer started from ground zero, it would cost $147.48 to tie those first 50 flies.  That averages out to be about $3 per fly for the first go 'round.  For the next round of flies when you don't have to account for the vise and tools, your cost is $34.98 which rounds out to be about $0.70 per fly (and it will likely even be cheaper than this because your materials will actually tie much more than 25 flies.)

This is kind of an extreme example because you are limiting yourself to one size of hook and one color per pattern, but as you move into buying materials for different patterns you will start seeing that your materials will mix and match to tie many other types of flies.  As you get further and further down the road of tying, you will get to the point that you are only limited by how many hooks and beads you have.  Like I said above, if you buy all the materials for a certain pattern, there is a very likely chance that you will only have to buy another pack of hooks to tie your next 25.

Uncle Ken's Wooly Bug
The other thing to consider is that your flies won't look like friggin' Captain America sat down to tie them (I'm confident that he is great on the vise), so it will take practice to get your flies to the point where they can compete, or even be better than their store bought counterparts.  Your goal from the get go is to tie flies that are durable and that can catch fish.  Once you have that down, you can focus on cleaning them up.  I have ranted many times about tying flies that are nice and tidy and that look great, BUT, if you are tying for yourself and don't intend on selling them or entering them in the Miss Universe contest, feel free to just tie "fishing" flies.

I'll tell you right now that many tyers (myself and Curtis included) will likely never "save" money tying flies because we have the sickness of having to have every new material and doo-dad that comes into the market.  Even though tying is a viable way to save money on flies if one is disciplined, for many people the draw of tying is much more than that, and it's worth it for them to have $25,000 worth of junk in a basement dungeon in order to have that perfect caddis pupa with just the right amount of flash and legs etc...   

The point I'd like to make the most with this post is this: Is it possible to save money by tying your own flies? Absolutely. It is probable? well...  that's complicated.

~ Cheech

P.S. To all you married fellers... One of the biggest ways to save money is to find a way to keep hooks from finding their way into your wife's feet.  I hear divorces are expensive.


The Tools We Don't Leave Home Without

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Non-standard standards


Turbo Dubbing Spinner and the Wasatch Fur Comb
A few weeks ago, I did a presentation for a trout unlimited group and was asked to discuss the various new tools and doo-dads we use. Surprisingly enough, beyond the normal scissors, bobbins, bodkins and whip finishers, there are still a lot of tools that we find indispensable. So rather than only listing them all here in writing we decided to bust out the movie making equipment and show our ugly mugs again.

So we chose a handful of tools that we really use day in and day out. And rather than recap the video below, here's a quick reference list to the tools we discussed:
** Click each one for more information **



Snook Snack - Baitfish

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A simple bait fish solution



When I started tying these I really didn't have snook in mind specifically, but due to the saltwater state of mind that I have been in lately and the color selection I chose for the first few rounds of this fly, it kind of came out snookish.  That being said, I have modified this pattern in other colors for trout and bass too.  Also, like many of our other patterns, this one isn't going to re-invent the wheel by any means, but it will maybe open some doors of creativity in showing some different materials for a tail and how to stick eyes on a baitfish without encasing them in UV resin.  I have been really liking the movement of craft fur in the water so I chose to make the tail out of it on this version.  Perhaps the most useful tip you can pull out of this short video is the marker blending technique that I use on Bruiser Blend.

~ Cheech

Recipe:
Hook: Daiichi 3111 2/0 (BUY HERE)
Thread: Uni 6/0 - White (BUY HERE)
Tail: Craft Fur - Tan and Chartreuse (BUY HERE)
Body1: Schlappen - Chartreuse (BUY HERE)
Body2: Palmer Chenille - Rootbeer (BUY HERE)
Head: Bruiser Blend Jr. - Dirty Chartreuse (BUY HERE) *additional color with marker
Eyes: Fish Skull Living Eyes 8mm (or 5mm) - Fire (Orange) (BUY HERE)

Alternate color:
Hook: Daiichi 3111 2/0 (BUY HERE)
Thread: Uni 6/0 - White (BUY HERE)
Tail: Craft Fur - White and Sand (BUY HERE)
Body1: Schlappen - White (BUY HERE)
Body2: Palmer Chenille - Pearl (BUY HERE)
Head: Bruiser Blend Jr. - Tan (top) Cream (bottom) (BUY HERE) *additional color with marker
Eyes: Fish Skull Living Eyes 8mm (or 5mm) - Ice (Silver) (BUY HERE)

Tools/Adhesives Used:
Wasatch Fur Comb  (BUY HERE)
Rite Bobbin (BUY HERE)
Tear Mender (BUY HERE)
Dr. Slick Razor Scissors (BUY HERE)
Griffin Montana Mongoose Vise (BUY HERE)
Quick Cut Whip Finisher (BUY HERE)  **limited supply

Virtual Iron Fly - Followers vs. Flyfishfood

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Challenge us to create stuff


This plethora of vises will help us get the job done.

These "Iron Fly" challenges that are popping up around the country are pretty awesome...  We have wanted to participate for a while now, and it just so happens that the Iron Fly in SLC is on a night that we get to fill bags full of goodies for our customers.  We're 100% good with that, BUT we still want to do an Iron Fly-esqe thing that involves our customers and followers, and this type of thing has been suggested already by several of you.  We will try to have a theme (either for the fly, or for the materials suggested), and our followers will comment on the blog, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc. with the materials they want to see us use.  Whoever is in the hot seat, whether it is Cheech or Curtis will have no input at all on the final list of materials to be used (we tend to be BRUTAL with each other).  Then, once the list is gathered, we hold a live YouTube event so you can watch us struggle to tie a fly that is somewhat usable.  The tyer will have no knowledge of the final list of materials chosen until the night of the live event.

I did this once at a family reunion when all of my brothers challenged me to tie a fly 100% out of materials from the shed.  I could use a hook and thread from my kit, but everything else was shed fodder.  What came of that was called the Weed Whacker Special tied out of twine, weed whacker line, and some flashy junk from a Christmas ornament.  Yes it worked... barely.  

Here's how it works.  

  1. We set a theme and a date
  2. You suggest the materials (via blog, social media, etc)
  3. We tie the fly during a live Youtube event
  4. You ridicule us while we struggle at the vise
  5. We either succeed or fail to make a usable fly.
  6. After the event there will be a drawing to win the fly that we tied and a small goodie bag.

You can suggest fly tying materials, stuff from the dollar store, etc etc.  One key to having your material selected is that it should be readily available.  If it's hard to find or really expensive, it likely won't make the list.

So here goes...

Date:  March 5, 2015 7:00 pm (Mountain time in 'Murica)
Theme: Meat (This will get more creative as we go on)

Start giving us your suggestions in the comments below and on social media.  More details once we get closer to March 5th.


Somehow I feel like we are going to regret this... but it will be for your entertainment.


Tacky UV Resins... The End of the World?

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Simple solutions for tacky resin

Alpha Predator with a resin head


Over the past few years it seems like everyone has adopted the new UV resins as a substitute to normal Squeeze n' Mix 2 part epoxies.  Yes...  Bliss is defined as a resin that can be cured instantly to achieve ultimate and instant gratification.  All of the sudden we are putting epoxy backs on our Copper Johns and hard heads on our baitfish patterns instantly! Ah yes, these are the good ol' days of fly tying where so many good things like UV resin are readily available to us.  This being said, there has been a lot of discussion and debate about what is the "best" resin to use.  To be honest - I like them all, but I'm a bit partial to Loon due to the fact that they are a stand up company that is all ears when their customers give them input, and they try to do what's best for the environment.

Like any good thing, there is a caveat to having this miracle resin, and it's a HUGE downer called hate tackiness so much that I want to punch it in it's fat tacky mouth, but the solutions are so simple that we shouldn't get so worked up about it.
Low Fat Minnow
tackiness.  Yes - the fact that 90% of the resins out there cure with a noticeable tack on the surface that just so happens to be a marabou and dubbing MAGNET.  Here is a question to ask yourself... and repeat after me, "Is tack really all that bad?" After asking yourself that, I invite you to take a step back and look at the Divas that we have become.  Tackiness is a prime example of a #firstworldproblem.  This being said, I absolutely

When I first started getting tack, I was using Loon wader repair back in the day with the single LED light that took like 150 hearing aid batteries.  I thought that the tack was because of the light at first, so I started using the sun to cure it.  Guess what.  The big ol' sun is still no match for tack.  A good light is definitely a good thing to have because it will cure your resin faster, but tack is not the result of using a bad light - it's a chemistry thing.  I've been told and actually scolded many a time about it.

I heretofore provide you some solutions to stop tack in it tracks, thus, allowing us to be divas like we deserve to be.

Tack elimination solutions:

Buzzer with UV Resin
Solution 1 - Use a tack free UV resin as a top coat.  Some of the most popular tack free resins are Loon Flow and CCG Hydro.  These are very thin resins that can easily be applied to another resin coat to create a tack free barrier to the world.  Other tack free resins are out there, but Flow and Hydro are the two I'm most familiar with and are readily available.  This is what I use 95.773% of the time.

Solution 2 - Tag your tacky surface with a head cement.  The best one I have found is Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails.  I have also used Hard as Hull with great results, and the only downside to this method is that you don't get instant gratification... Go cry me a river...  Once you stop sobbing the SHHAN is dry.

Solution 3 - Rubbing alcohol / hand sanitizer.  Dab a bit of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab or a q-tip and apply to your tack to watch it magically disappear.  Hand sanitizer has the same effect (if it's alcohol based - which most are) but I usually don't put it on a cotton swab or q-tip.  The only issue with this is that the hand sanitizer will leave kind of a matte finish to the surface.  I really like a shiny surface so I don't use this one very much.

Solution 4 - (this is for coating larger surfaces) Use Loon hard head, or a 2 part 30 minute epoxy as a top coat.  This requires a fly turning wheel due to the size of the surface area covered.  This is a very cost effective method, and the 30 minute epoxy is the ticket to a bullet proof fly that won't break.  You could just use 100% epoxy, but it's much easier to form the general shape of the head with UV resin because you can zap it in place instantly.

Solution 5 - Travel to the planet krypton to the resin springs of non-tack-nia and scoop up the resin in a hollow mammoth tusk.  This is the place where all non tacky resin is naturally spewed forth, and very little makes it back to earth.  This is why dentists can charge you so much for it.  The only other people that will offer to sell you the resins of non-tack-nia are the Kenyans...  so... pretty sketchy.  You best stick to solutions 1 through 4.


All in all... Tack is really not that big of a deal, and there are several solutions for eliminating it.  Would it be good if all resins were not tack free?  Absolutely!  Until then, we can hate tack, but we just can't be divas about it.

~ Cheech


The Crotcha: A Hybrid Bonefish Fly

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Gotcha or Crazy Charlie?

Crotcha Bonefish Pattern

So I'm a big fan of taking perfectly good fly patterns, dissecting them or adding to them to create variations -- mostly including my own home-baked patterns. In this case, we had some buddies headed to a few different salty locales around the world and so this concoction was whipped up to be a good combo of probably the two most popular bonefish patterns around.

Now I still don't really get all the differences between a Crazy Charlie and a Gotcha because you'll find images of each of them that look really close to each other swapping out materials and such, but this is a fun little tie that combines some of the aspects of each and then adds a few new-ish twists to round it off. And based on results of the first round of field testing, it does a pretty good job on the bones.

So grab some materials and get tying...

Material List

Hook: Daiich 2546 #4 or Partridge Sea Prince Hook #4  (BUY HERE) 
Thread: Montana Fly 6/0, Fl Pink  (BUY HERE)
Eyes: Beadchain Barbell Eyes  (BUY HERE)
Tail: Salty Snack Dubbing, Lt Orange  (BUY HERE)
Body: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Pink, Lg  (BUY HERE)
Vein: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Black, Md  (BUY HERE)
Ribbing: Krystal Flash, Black  (BUY HERE)
Body Coating: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish, Thick and Flow  (BUY HERE)
                        Loon Fly Tying Powder, Pearl  (BUY HERE)
Throat: Salty Snack Dubbing, Crab Tan; Senyo Barred Predator Wrap, Barred UV  (BUY HERE)
Legs: Silicon Streamer Legs, Speckled Shrimp (BUY HERE)





El Sculpito Dos - Updated!

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A small streamer with a bad attitude

The new and improved El Sculpito

***UPDATE***
Shortly after writing this article, I started on tweaking the Sculpito into something that could be done with more readily available products.  The major change is the head which is now made of Mega
Simi Seal.  There is also one change that I made after making the video, and that's the thread that I use for the head of this fly.  I was having issues with thread breakage when I wrapped the head due to having to cram it in between the barbell eyes so tight.  I switched to GSP and it fixed the problem.  GSP thread usually comes in black or white, so you may need to tag it with a marker.  The olive and tan El Sculpito is among our top selling flies on the site, and we see pictures from all over the country with fish that have been fooled by this pattern.

Here are the updated recipes:

Olive El Sculpito:
Hook: Allen B200 #4 -8 BUY HERE or Gamakatsu B10S #1-4 BUY HERE
Barbell Eyes: Brass Barbell w/eye - red (5.5mm for B200 #4-6  and B10S #1-2) (4.8mm for B200 #8 and B10S #4) BUY HERE
Thread: UTC 140 - olive (body) BUY HERE and Veevus 100D GSP - black (head) BUY HERE
Body: Arizona Mega Simi Seal - Dark Brown Olive BUY HERE
Tail: Rabbit Zonker Strips - Olive BUY HERE
Pectoral Fins: Silicon streamer legs - Olive gold BUY HERE
Head: Arizona Mega Simi Seal - Dark Brown Olive BUY HERE
Stripes: Black Sharpie

Tan El Sculpito:
Hook: Allen B200 #4 -8 BUY HERE or Gamakatsu B10S #1-4 BUY HERE
Barbell Eyes: Brass Barbell w/eye - yellow (5.5mm for B200 #4-6  and B10S #1-2) (4.8mm for B200 #8 and B10S #4) BUY HERE
Thread: UTC 140 - Tan (body) BUY HERE and Veevus 100D GSP - white (head) BUY HERE
Body: Arizona Mega Simi Seal - Golden Shiner BUY HERE
Tail: Rabbit Zonker Strips - Grizzly or Tan BUY HERE
Pectoral Fins: Silicon streamer legs - Speckled Pumpkin BUY HERE
Head: Arizona Mega Simi Seal - Golden Shiner BUY HERE
Stripes: Brown Sharpie

Tools used:
Turbo Dubbing Spinner BUY HERE or Stonfo Elite Rotodubbing Twister BUY HERE
Griffin Supreme Ceramic Bobbin BUY HERE
Dr. Slick 4" Tungsten Scissors BUY HERE
Dr. Slick All-In-One Dubbing Brush BUY HERE




Buy El Sculpito HERE





Version of El Sculpito


***Original Article***

It seems that articulated flies are all the rage right now, but there is definitively still a place in our hearts (and in fish lips)  for the one hook variety of streamers.  El Sculpito, like many of the patterns that I tie, is more of a concept than an exact recipe, and many of the materials can be added/subtracted to your liking.  When I started this concept, I wanted to make a pattern that wasn't too complex, and that would slither over rocks without hanging up.  I knew the tail was going to be rabbit, but the rest of the fly was kind of up in the air.  I used Arizona Mega Simi Seal (AZMSS) for the body (and eventually for the head too), because it has a wide variety of colors and isn't overburdened with flash.  By using AZMSS in the fly it eliminates the need to add flash of any kind and makes the bug even faster to tie.  Pectoral fins on sculpins are what really make or break them because the head and fins should have a wide, flat profile.  I had been tying some bass jigs and had a bunch of skirt material (sili legs) laying on the table, so on they went.  They looked really cool on the vise, but I didn't realize what they would do for the action of the fly in the water until I actually fished it (see below).  Then came the head...  Deer hair?  Nope, I want to keep it simple.  Wool?  Nope, even more simple.  I grabbed some Congo Hair and started cutting it up to make a super dubbing.  The dubbing consists of multiple colors of congo hair cut about 2 inches long and blended all up with combs and dog brushes (coffee grinders don't take to well to this stuff).  I attached the dubbing using a dubbing loop, and it actually brushed out really well and held its shape even in the water.  I have since moved to AZMSS dubbing for the head due to a wider array of colors available.  For the eyes, I have been using lead barbell eyes with CCG eyes super glued  to them, but if I want to simplify the pattern I add  Spirit River I-Balz eyes or Allen Fly Fishing barbell eyes.

This Splake found it hard to resist


Field tests have been completed, and not only did the fish munch it up, it swims great and slithers over rocks just as I suspected it would.  One of the coolest features was that the sili legs are somewhat buoyant, and make the back half of the fly kick up after it is stripped kind of like a jigging motion.  Many more variations to come.

~ Cheech


Recipe:

Hook: Allen B200 #4 -8 (BUY HERE)
Thread: Uni 6/0 (body) and Veevus 100D GSP (head) (Uni, Veevus)

Hook: Allen Fly Fishing B200  -- Buy Here --
Thread: Uni 6/0.  Bigger thread is important so I can cinch the dubbing loop between the eyes.
Tail: Rabbit strip.  Normal size for smaller patterns, and magnum for larger patterns.  -- Buy Here --
Body: Arizona Mega Simi Seal. Colors include Dark Olive and Dark Olive Brown -- Buy Here --
Pectoral fins: Skirt material from www.fishingskirts.com (seriously, you should check this site out.)
Eyes: Barbell Eyes -- Buy Here --
Head: Same as body, OR try our new Bruiser Blend with longer, more brushable fibers -- Buy Here --


Shown in a smaller size with simi seal dubbing. (this is the one in the fish lip above.)

Original pattern with I-Balz and Congo Hair

Original pattern with I-Balz and Congo Hair


Zeph's Water Boatman

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A Stillwater Sleeper


water boatman
Water Boatman (photo Tim Spuckler)
Until a few years ago, I had never fished nor really appreciated the lowly water boatman. I'd seen them in the water and knew the patterns existed, but just didn't realize how important they could be to trout on the prowl.

Combine a few trips where I got some good Water Boatman samples from trout and a couple of tips from a good friend who'd seen the same thing and I was a lot more motivated to whip up a good pattern for my stillwater box.

If you want some good info on the insects themselves, check out our friend Phil Rowley's excellent write-up of them here.

This imitation was patterned after some of the naturals we were seeing and I also wanted to include the magical fish catching dubbing that is Ice Dub from Hareline. Tan UV in this case. It's basically fish magnets chopped up and all shiny.

Anyway, the pattern is pretty simple and also incorporates more Loon UV Clear Fly Finish like we did on the previous snail pattern. Here's the top and side views...

Zeph's Water Boatman

Material List

Hook: Daiichi X Point X710 #14 - #12  -- Buy Here --
Thread: MFC 6/0 Black  -- Buy Here --
Shell: Fino Skin or MFC Skinny Skin, Black or Brown (color to match)  -- Buy Here --
Under-Body: Ice Dub, UV Tan -- Buy Here --
Body Coating: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish, Thick & Flow  -- Buy Here --
Legs: Krystal Flash, Rootbeer  -- Buy Here --


Recipe Updates... Arizona Prince and Belly Scratcher Minnow

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Color combos for fish slayers

We posted a few simple (Cheech's hand) pics on social media last night and we have gotten quite a response asking for the new recipes for these color combos.  Ask and ye shall receive.  These have subtle changes in materials and hooks, but they are they exact same tying sequence.  

Arizona Prince:


Hook: Partridge Czech Nymph Hook #10 BUY HERE
Thread: MFC Premium Thread - Brown 6/0 BUY HERE
Bead: 3.8mm Tungsten - Gold BUY HERE
Biots: Stripped Goose Biots - Prince nymph brown BUY HERE
Dubbing: AZ Mega Synthetic - Yellow tan BUY HERE
Legs: Grizzly Micro Legs - Rootbeer BUY HERE

See the original post HERE


Belly Scratcher Minnow:


Hook: Gamakatsu B10S #4 BUY HERE
Beads: 3mm Tungsten - Gold (really doesn't matter) BUY HERE
Thread: MFC premium 6/0 - White BUY HERE
Tail: Micro Pulsator Rabbit Strip - Black barred chartreuse over white BUY HERE
Body: Cactus chenille - White BUY HERE
Head: Bruiser Blend Jr. - White (Top and bottom) BUY HERE
Eyes: Fish Skull Living Eyes - Ice (silver) 5mm BUY HERE
Wire: Articulation wire BUY HERE
Adhesive: Tear Mender BUY HERE

Colored with markers to make the top look like the rabbit strip.

See the original post HERE

Smith Creek: Middle Fork Fly Patch & Rig Keeper

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More innovation from Smith Creek


We first tried some of the Smith Creek products last year and were impressed with the form and
function of these innovative designs. So when we saw these two new fly patch products a while back, we needed to give them a try.
Smith Creek Middle Fork Fly Patch

First off, I don't like to carry a lot of dangling things when I fish. Not only can things bust off as you traipse through the bushes, but some things will just get in the way. So the first thing I noticed with these two products is they have a very secure (read: won't just break off), fastening system with the locking screw/cable design. But they hold flies and rigs secure enough that you can also just throw them into your pocket. Anyway, let's look at these two products here...

Rig Keeper: This little gem is something I've been needing for a long time. When I nymph fish, I like to swap out a set of flies sometimes rather than just one at a time. This patch allows you to keep a rigged set of nymphs, dries/dropper, or dry/dry without having to stuff it in the fly box with tippet materials hanging out.
Smith Creek Rig Keeper


Middle Fork Fly Patch

Middle Fork Fly Patch: Granted there are a million different styles of on-the-vest fly patches, but this is probably the winner in terms of design and usability. Besides the awesome attachment cable mentioned above, there are a few cool little features going on here. First off, the patch has raised ribs on each end to protect the flies from being bumped and jarred loose. That, paired with the secure slits on the patch, and I didn't see any flies missing at the end of the day. Plus, it comes with a zinger so you can keep it always at the ready. 



Tyer's Block

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5 ways to get rid of tyer's block

Yes.  That is a dime, and tying like this is NOT healthy

It's the tail end of winter, and midges are a must in my box if I want to be able to catch dry fly eaters this weekend.  I really like to create new stuff at the vise, but all of my creative juices are being used up at the moment with big bulky streamers like articulated complex twist buggers and shiny dangly sliders.  Midges were causing me to get something that we all dread - tyer's block.  Instead of packing it in and watching Storage Wars for the evening, I decided to spin up some #30 bunny midges while I tried to force myself to be more creative.  The result?  Nothing groundbreaking on the midge front, but now I have a dozen tried and true midge patterns to fish with! (and they all fit on a dime.)

Have you ever had a time where you sit down in front of the vise and you lose all motivation or inspiration to tie flies?  I have at times had to deal with sitting at my tying desk and staring at the clutter that has overtaken my work space.  Sometimes I throw a hook in the vise and hope inspiration will hit me betwixt the eyes, but more times than not, it doesn't happen this way and the fly that gets tied is an uninspired piece of junk that gets hucked into a corner of the desk that is the graveyard for junker flies.  See, for me... I HAVE TO TIE.  It's kind of like breathing - so I came up with 5 ways to get that motivation back to turn up the tunes and crank out the flies.

1- Revisit past effective patterns - I like to think back over the last year and think of all of the
Stoneflopper
patterns that worked for me.  From there I like to tie up more of those patterns along with some slight variations of those patterns.  This will often spur creativity by helping you remember how the fly fished, and possible ways to make it better.  The Stoneflopper is a perfect example of this for me.  I had tied a bunch of them and we did really well on them, but the glue I was using for the foam didn't keep it in place after a few fish.  Glue changed, and now that pattern is basically bulletproof.

Premo Grumpy Frumpy
2- Fill a box - Whether this means going through an old box and purging old chewed up patterns or buying a new box, the challenge of filling it up is always fun and motivating.  Since I got a few of the tacky boxes I made a goal to fill one of them up with my A-Team varsity starter dry flies, and that box came in handy for me more than once.  It's always fun to pull it out and make sure that I'm fully stocked on the yellow-red Grumpy Frumpy tied on an ultra premium hook with cree hackle.  Yep...  That's how my grumpy game rolls - and it's goooooooood.

3- Organize your work space - This perhaps doesn't apply to you OCD  types who know how many
That is a MESS
millimeters of each color of tinsel you have at any given time... For me, it is always a good thing to go through all my stuff and put it away just so I can remember all of the material, hooks, yarn, and used lingerie that I have amassed over the years.  There are times that I'll get a great idea for a fly just by remembering what I have to tie with.

4- Tie for an upcoming trip - Whether it's a trip coming up on the weekend or a trip in a few months, it's always a good idea to visualize the fish you are going to catch, and the bugs that are going to do the job for you.  It can be hard to tie bass poppers in January, but if you get pumped for that trip coming up  in July it becomes a lot more appealing.  It's March, and I'm throwing down a foam bug here and there to get ready for the summer.


Pink Humpy
5- Challenge yourself to learn a new pattern - This is typically what I do if I'm really super stuck.  A few years ago I went on a full grown rampage to tie the perfect Humpy.  I researched and tried all different types of hair and tying styles, and ended up with a nice little collection of fishable humpy pattern.  I wouldn't say they were perfect, but at least they were presentable to the fish.  Through researching and tying one of the old classics, I gained a new-found respect for the tyers of yesteryear who didn't/wouldn't use the comforts of synthetic materials like we have now.  This being said, I'll take foam any day (see the Grumpy Frumpy.)

These tips have helped me many a time, and they have turned a day of sitting and staring at my vise into a productive day of tying flies.

~ Cheech
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