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Flashabaetis Nymph

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A Flashy and Unweighted Mayfly Nymph


A gaggle of Flashabaetis nymphs
There was a time that I got into a sort of weird rut with my nymph patterns and ended up with the vast majority of my flies tied with beads on them. I didn't even think about it until a day when I was sight fishing to a bunch of nice high mountain cutthroats and my bead head patterns were all sinking way too fast past the noses of the fish, resulting in a very poor showing in the net. Even though I finally dug out an unweighted fly that ultimately scored me some good fish because it spent more time slowly sinking (i.e. hanging in the "zone"), I realized I'd become too bead-heavy in my tying. Lesson learned: always be sure to have a good mixture of weighted and unweighted nymph patterns in the same types of patterns in order to cover more of the water column and different fishing conditions.

 The nice thing about unweighted patterns is that they can actually be a little more multi-purpose than bead-head flies. It's tough to get a bead head to sink slower, but especially in lakes or slower moving water, you just need to add a little more time and the unweighted fly can reach your target zone and even hang there longer.  My little cutthroat excursion above was a pretty obvious example of this where the unweighted fly (same style) outscored their beaded buddies by a huge margin. I could only chalk that up to having the fly maintain a more natural descent or movement in the water and possibly remaining in the fish's view for more time.

The Flashabaetis was born out of this concept with some added flashiness to help get a little more attention in the water. It's a really fun pattern to tie and you can mix up the color schemes to imitate a lot of different mayflies, although I'm usually tying them for Pale Morning Duns (PMD's), Baetis (Blue winged olives) or Callibaetis nymphs.

Material List


Hook: Partridge Czech Nymph, #14-#18 (+) or Daiichi 1130 #14 - #18 (+)
Thread: UNI 8/0, Olive Dun (+)
Tail/Legs: Hungarian Partridge -- Full Skin (+) or Bagged Partridge Feathers (+)
Body: UNI Double Sided Mylar, Peacock/Orange, #12 (+)
Ribbing: UTC Ultra Wire, Brassie, Copper   (+)
Abdomen Back: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Med, Brown (+)
Thorax: Hare'e Ice Dub, Gray (+)
Wing Case: Nymph Skin, Bronze/Tan - Clear (+)
                   or Fino Skin, Brown (+)

Other Tools, materials:
Loon UV Fluorescing Clear Fly Finish (+)
Touch Dub, Dubbing Wax (+)


Flugenzombie - An Articulated Streamer

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A mashup of three effective patterns


Flugenzombie in Dirty Baitfish coloration


It's no secret that we like to take effective patterns and mash them up into what we hop will be effective bugs.  The Chimera pattern (that Curtis has promised to start wearing as earrings because he loves it so much) is a good example of a fly that wasn't designed to match any one specific bug, rather to be a "close enough" type of pattern that the fish might take for a lot of different things.  We, as human beings, are pretty picky about what we actually put into our mouths with the intent of eating, for example: If I hid Curtis' glasses from him and lined up a delicious chocolate whopper, a raisin, and a deer turd on a table and told him that all three had some caloric value, he'd probably take his time before figuring out that one is literally a piece of crap, one might as well be a piece of crap, and only one of them is actually worth making the effort of putting in his mouth.  Fish?  They are a bit different.  They don't have the highly developed taste buds that Curtis has, so they eat more like me...  If it's of caloric value, it's going down the hatch.  Before I start getting hate mail about all of the picky 20 inchers that you fish for that only eat a properly presented baetis pattern with two tails and a body made from dubbing color 38923-A presented on 7x tippet, I do understand that lot of fish are picky eaters...  It's just that we shouldn't lose the mindset that fish are searching for calories, and many times a pattern that is "close enough" will do the trick.

Now that I got that little rant out of my scattered brain I can tell you about the Flugenzombie.  The name is more of a joke than anything, but this fly was rumored to have eaten the Cheech Leech, The Complex Twist Bugger, and the Lunch Lady to morph into a mashup of all three.  I use the body and tail from the Complex Twist, I use a collar of marabou and silicone legs from the Cheech Leech, and I use a Lunch Lady head.  One thing I forgot to do on the video is attach speckled flashabou at points 5:15, and 10:24...  The flash should be tied in front of the sections of the fly, and kind of act as an over "wing" that extends to the length of the tail.  You can see the flash in the example patterns that I show.  The Flugenzombie is a takeoff of other patterns that were already not an exact copy of anything that lives in the water.  All I know is that the fish either love this style and want to eat it, or they hate it and they want to kill it.  To accomplish either of these ends it will need to be in the mouth of the fish at some point.  Win win.

~Cheech


Recipe:

**A good substitute for the Gamakatsu B10S is the Partridge Attitude Streamer (+)

Articulation Wire Flush Cutters (+)
Stonfo Comb/Brush Tool (+)


Dirty Baitfish

Hook 1: Daiichi 2461 #1 (+)
Hook 2: Gamakatsu B10S #1 (+)
Eyes: Ballzeyes - Large, Chartreuse Eye (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Black (+)
Tail1and Collar1: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Muskrat Gray (+)
Tail2 and Collar2: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Tan (+)
Body1: Schlappen - Heron Gray (+)
Body2: Schlappen - Tan (+)
Body3: UV Polar Chenille - Large  Gold (+)
Flash: Flashabou - Speckled Gold (+)
Connection1: Articulation Wire (+)
Connection2: Articulation Bead - Gunmetal (+)
Legs: Silicone Streamer Legs - Sparkle Sand (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend Jr. - Alpha Wolf (+)
Head2: Bruiser Blend Jr - Cream (+)


Cali 420

Hook 1: Daiichi 2461 #1 (+)
Hook 2: Gamakatsu B10S #1 (+)
Eyes: Ballzeyes - Large, Red Anodized (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Red (+)
Tail1 and Collar1: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Dark Olive (+)
Tail2 and Collar1: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Claret (+)
Body1: Schlappen - Olive (+)
Body2: Schlappen - Black (+)
Body3: Senyo's Aqua Veil Chenille - Chocolate Covered Cherry (+)
Flash: Flashabou - Red (+)
Connection1: Articulation Wire (+)
Connection2: Articulation Bead - Ruby Red (+)
Legs: Silicone Streamer Legs - Chrome Watermelon (+)
Head: Bruiser Blend Jr. - California 420 (top and bottom) (+)


Wyoming Sheep Herder

Hook 1: Daiichi 2461 #1 (+)
Hook 2: Gamakatsu B10S #1 (+)
Eyes: Hareline Double Pupil Eyes - Large, Yellow White/Black (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Yellow (+)
Tail1 and Collar1: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Brown (+)
Tail2 and Collar2: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Yellow (+)
Body1: Schlappen - Fiery Brown (+)
Body2: Schlappen - Yellow (+)
Body3: Senyo's Aqua Veil Chenille -  Peanut Brittle (+)
Flash: Flashabou - Speckled Copper (+)
Connection1: Articulation Wire (+)
Connection2: Articulation Bead - Nuclear Corn (+)
Legs: Silicone Streamer Legs - Speckled Pumpkin (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend Jr. - Brown (+)
Head2: Bruiser Blend Jr - Canary (+)

Pink Britches

Hook 1: Daiichi 2461 #1 (+)
Hook 2: Gamakatsu B10S #1 (+)
Eyes: Hareline Double Pupil Eyes - Large, Pink White Black (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - White (+)
Tail1: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Pink (+)
Tail2: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - White (+)
Body1: Schlappen - Pink (+)
Body2: Schlappen - White (+)
Body3: Senyo's Aqua Veil Chenille - Bubble Gum (+)
Flash: Flashabou - Pink (+)
Connection1: Articulation Wire (+)
Connection2: Articulation Bead - Magenta Fire (+)
Legs: Silicone Streamer Legs - Speckled Shrimp (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend Jr. - Neon Pink (+)
Head2: Bruiser Blend Jr - White (+)

Kreelex variation

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Maybe the easiest streamer in your box

Speckled Silver Kreelex Variation


The Kreelex fly designed by Chuck Kraft could almost be considered the holy grail of streamers because it's about as simple as it gets, and it is very very effective.  I started playing with this style of fly a little while back, but I used flashabou instead of the original Kreinik fibers because I wanted a bit more of a sparse profile.  For added kick, I also added a coat of powder paint to the barbell eyes and the eye of the hook.  Powder paint is guaranteed to help you catch 57.33% more fish, and it will also help you have 37.97% cooler looking flies in your box.  Also, 87% of all statistics are made up.  I just had to add that in there because someone will ask if the powder paint is absolutely necessary on this fly.  The answer is always no, but I think that there are times when a bit of added flair can help you in your fishing.  Powder paint is available in many different colors, and they can be a killer addition to barbell eyes, coneheads, etc.  I would just kind of avoid using it on smaller nymph bead heads because it will gum up the eye of your hook.  All in all, this fly can be tied in a bazillion color combinations, so get some hooks, flashabou, and powder paint and make some fish catchers.

~ Cheech 


*Also, I lost all ability to think while I was filming, so there are lots of speaking errors...  I blame Curtis' dog Pedro and his evil stare downs for the mistakes.



Recipes:

Silver

Hook:  Gamakatsu B10S #2 (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Black (+)
Wire: UTC Small - Gold (+)
Paint: Powder Paint - Black Blue (+)
Barbell: Lead Barbell Eyes - Large (+)
Body1: Speckled Flashabou - Silver (+)
Body2: Dyed Pearl Flashabou - Dark Blue (+)


Gold

Hook:  Gamakatsu B10S #2 (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Black (+)
Wire: UTC Small - Gold (+)
Paint: Powder Paint - Olive Gold (+)
Barbell: Lead Barbell Eyes - Large (+)
Body1: Speckled Flashabou - Gold (+)
Body2: Dyed Pearl Flashabou - Black (+)


Copper

Hook:  Gamakatsu B10S #2 (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Black (+)
Wire: UTC Small - Gold (+)
Paint: Powder Paint - Black Red (+)
Barbell: Lead Barbell Eyes - Large (+)
Body1: Speckled Flashabou - Copper (+)
Body2: Dyed Pearl Flashabou - Orange (+)

Skirted Bugger

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Conventional Bass World Meets Fly Tying



Several years ago when I started to fish more seriously for bass I was given a lead pot, molds, powder paint, and "skirt" making material.  My friends wanted me to give jig making a try since I knew how to tie flies.  Boy did I ever make some jigs...  I still make all of the jigs that I fish with, but it didn't take long for the conventional bass influence to trickle over to fly tying.  The El Sculpito is a design that is heavily influenced by bass fishing because of the gross amount of silicone legs that it uses.  This "skirted" style of fly is nothing really new in the warm water game, but I wanted to meld it with a bugger style fly.  This fly is kind of Calcasieu Pig Boat meets Wooly Bugger and can be modified about a million different ways.  Also, the way that the silicone is tied in can be used in a lot of different flies to add bulk and maximum lateral line stimulation.  I see some guys buying pre-made bass skirts and using those on a fly, but the only reason that the bass guys will use those pre-made skirts is that they don't know how to "hand tie" them.  By tying them in with thread you get a much more durable tie in point, and the silicone flares much more.  Good luck with this fly...  It's very simple and a ton of fun to customize.

~ Cheech




Recipes:

Olive/Gold

Hook: Daiichi 2461 #2 (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Black (+)
Cone: Brass Cone - Copper Large (+) Any color works...
Weighted Wire: Lead Free Wire - .030 (+)
Paint: Powder Paint - Olive Gold (+)
Tail: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Dark Olive (+)
Body: Hare'e Ice Dub - Olive Brown (+)
Flash: Ice Dub - Gold (+)
Collar: Silicon Streamer Legs - Olive Gold (+)

Black/Red

Hook: Daiichi 2461 #2 (+)
Thread: Danville 140 - Black (+)
Cone: Brass Cone - Copper Large (+) Any color works...
Weighted Wire: Lead Free Wire - .030 (+)
Paint: Powder Paint - Black Red (+)
Tail: Nature's Spirit Prime Long Marabou - Black (+)
Body: Hare'e Ice Dub - Black (+)
Flash: Ice Dub - Red (+)
Collar: Silicon Streamer Legs - Black Chrome Red (+)


Duracell Jig

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Another nymph for the quiver


Duracell Jig
I haven't fished the duracell jig for more than a year or so, but it's quickly becoming one of my all-around go-to flies for Euro style nymphing as well as something to drop off of a big dry fly.

Originally created, near as I can tell from what I read online, by Craig McDonald, the Duracell has quickly become a favorite pattern among the Euro or Czech style nymphing crowd.

I'm very particular to Ice Dub and Hare'e Ice Dub, so when I saw this was created almost entirely from one of my favorite materials, I figured it had to be golden -- and it's been golden, no question.

If you tie, the tutorial follows. If you don't tie, we have some already whipped up for you here.



Nice Brown Nymphed up with a Duracell 


Material List


Hook: Fulling Mill Jig Hook #12 #2 (+) or
           Partridge Jig Hook #12 (+)
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten, 3.3mm, Nickel (+)
Thread: UNI 8/0, Camel  (+)
Tail: Coq De Leon Tailing, Dyed Brown (+)
Body & Thorax: Ice Dub, UV Brown (+)
Ribbing: UTC Ultra Wire, Small, Red (+)
Collar: Nature's Spirit CDC, Brown (+)

Other tools from the tutorial:
Stonfo Elite Rotodubbing Twister  (+)












Petitjean Long Blade Scissors (for use with Magic Tool)  (+)












Petitjean Magic Tool Set (+)

Belly Scratching Game Changer

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Wiggle Wiggle, Twitch, Wiggle

Belly Scratching Game Changer
Swim bait.  Two words that might be foreign to the fly fishing purist, but are synonymous to catching huge bass on conventional gear.  Fly-only people typically refer to anything made of hard plastic as a Rapala or a crank bait, but a swim bait is quite different because there is usually not a "lip" to create wobble factor.  The hard plastic swim baits that I have under the deck of the bass boat are typically made up of two or more sections that make it swim like a real fish.  The paint jobs are pristine, and they absolutely crush fish - not just bass, but any type of fish that eats other fish.  Where am I going with this? The game changer style of fly is basically a swim bait for your fly rod, and they are big fish magnets due to maximum movement.  Big thanks to Blane Chocklett for tweaking this fly to what it is today, and another big thanks to material companies like Flymen Fishing Co. and Hareline Dubbin for being willing to produce materials that make this fly easier to tie.  

Like most flies that I try or see, I can't help but tinker a bit with them.  I wanted to invert the fly to make it ride hook point up so I added the belly scratcher style weighting system.  I also made the head out of bruiser blend because I thought it looked cool and really blended well with the Game Changer Chenille.  That's another thing...  The game changer style fly really lends itself to many different materials like craft fur, EP fibers, and feathers; but the easiest to use are made by Hareline and are called "Chocklett's Body Wrap" and "Chocklett's Game Changer Chenille." They will both make your game changer tying experience a lot better.  These flies are not difficult to tie at all, but they take a bit of time to construct and trim, so be patient.

~Cheech



Recipes:

Brown/Clear

Hook: Gamakatsu B10s - 2/0 (+)
Thread: Danville 210 - White (+)
Spines: Fish Skull Articulated Fish Spines - Starter Pack (+)
Connection: Articulation Wire (+)
Weight: Plummeting Bead - 5.5mm (+)
Weight Plummeting Bead - 4.6mm (+)
Eyes: 3D Big Fish Eyes - 3/8 (10mm) Super Pearl (+)
Tail: Arctic Fox Tail Hair - White (+)
Body: Game Changer Chenille - Clear (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend - Alpha Wolf (+)
Head2: Bruiser Blend - White (+)
Head3: Bruiser Blend Jr. - Alpha Wolf (+)
Head4: Bruiser Blend Jr. - White (+)
Marker: Chartpak - Delta Brown (+)
Marker: Chartpak - Black (+)



Black/Gray

Hook: Gamakatsu B10s - 2/0 (+)
Thread: Danville 210 - White (+)
Spines: Fish Skull Articulated Fish Spines - Starter Pack (+)
Connection: Articulation Wire (+)
Weight: Plummeting Bead - 5.5mm (+)
Weight Plummeting Bead - 4.6mm (+)
Eyes: 3D Big Fish Eyes - 3/8 (10mm) Super Pearl (+)
Tail: Arctic Fox - Black (+)
Body: Game Changer Chenille - Gray (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend - Black (+) The head is solid black
Head2: Bruiser Blend Jr. - Black (+)
Marker: Chartpak - Black (+)



Other Items Used
Tear Mender (+)
Loon Applicator Bottle (+)
Stonfo Comb and Brush (+)
Flush Cutters (+)
Streamworks 5" Razor Scissors (+)
Streamworks 4" Tungsten Scissors (+)
Regal Revolution Vise - with big game jaw (+)

California 420 Leech

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Makes Fish Get the Munchies

california 420 leech simi seal
California 420 Leech

Anyone that's fished leeches, buggers or other patterns using John Rohmer's Simi Seal dubbings knows how insanely effective they are. In fact, I was looking in my stillwater boxes the other day and realized I've got a lot of patterns featuring simi seal. And as many of you know, we work with John on custom colors and blends of most of his dubbings, so when Cheech came up with the "420" series of dubbing colors for Bruiser Blend, we knew John could work the 420 magic on the Simi Seal.

And magic he did work. The color is an awesome darker olive with UV highlights in red and green. It's the perfect leech color for the darker olive leeches we see, so I knew the first pattern we needed would be a leech.

If you've ever wondered why wooly buggers and those types of patterns work so well with trout, well it's because trout eat a lot of leeches. Check out Phil Rowley's section on leeches here, but they come in all shapes, sizes and colors. I tend to like olives, browns, blacks and dark reds but it depends on where you fish of course.

Leech (Courtesy Phil Rowley)
I was going for a pattern here that had some color variations like we see with naturals. Leeches are often comprised of a number different colors, so besides the 420 Simi, I threw in a collar and tail that would add some highlights.

Material List

Hook: TMC 5263 #10  (+) or
           U 103 (50 pack) #10 (+)
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten, 3.3mm, Metallic Olive (+)  (Nickel, Metallic Brown or Metallic Green also work well)
Thread: UNI 6/0, Olive (+)
Tail & Collar: Coq De Leon Hen, Soft Hackle with Chickabou, Speckled Yellow Chartreuse (+)
Tail Flash: Krystal Flash, Rootbeer (+)
Body: Arizona Mega Simi Seal, California 420  (+)


Other tools from the tutorial:
Stonfo Combo Brush/Comb  (+)
Turbo Dubbing Spinner (+)

Titan Rod Vault Install

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A Huge Win for Mobility

The truck rigged with two Titan Rod Vaults
Over the years, we've messed around with different ways to transport rigged rods from location to location when we're fishing on different waters during a day or hole-hopping on local rivers and streams. From the ol' windshield wiper "clamp" trick to shoving them out a window to transporting them inside the vehicle getting rod tip slapped as we drove and finally to a more recent contraption I built with PVC tubes, magnets and bungie cords, we tried them all. And all of them were very poor methods to get quickly in and out with no rod damage but could also weather a jaunt down the freeway if needed. Finally, after a few rod scratches, a number of drops and one painful rod break, we decided it was time to bite the bullet and get something better.

So we started shopping around for other solutions and found a few products designed to carry rods more securely. Ultimately, we settled on the Titan Rod Vault from Denver Outfitters as it seemed to have more of the features we wanted:
  • Rod Protection
  • Ease of removal and put away
  • Tube length (we fish a few 10 footers for Euro style nymphing)
  • Ease of install and mounting options
  • Security. You can lock the vaults themselves and also padlock the tube clamps to the rack you install it on.
  • Business end of the Titan Rod Vault 



















  • Cosmetic, yes, but we really wanted a cool wrap so we went with a Brook Trout theme from a fish we caught a couple years back.
Custom Fly Fish Food wrap
Even though Denver Outfitters has a great set of instructions on how to mount and install, I figured we'd do one ourselves. One very important thing I'd recommend if you have a truck with no shell, like my Tundra here, give a look at US Rack. They carry high quality racks with a ton of different mounting options. And they're cheaper than the standard Thule or Yakima offerings. Since my truck has a bed rail system, it was awesome to have the US Rack system attach right in there with no drilling or other obtrusive mods to my truck.  

Anyhoo...check it out in the video here...


Bruiser Bugger

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Beef Up Your Bugger

Bruiser Buggers

The Wooly Bugger is probably the most popular fly on the planet, and it can be tied in about any configuration you can imagine.  I really like a heavily weighted bugger to fish in rivers, and you all hopefully have seen the complex twist bugger with it's large tungsten cone head.  The Bruiser Bugger was created just because I was addicted to throwing the new double pupil eyes on about every fly that came off my desk.  For my river buggers I like them big and bold - long tailed and thick headed dragons that move a lot, dive deep, and push water.  My stillwater buggers (for lakes) I like to make more like leeches - Shorter sparse tails, short hackle, and minimal weight.  The Bruiser Bugger is a pretty quick tie that really moves well and pushes water really well.  They will be a great addition to your streamer box.

~Cheech



Recipes:

Yellow/Brown

Hook: Daiichi 2461 #2 (+)
Thread: Veevus GSP - 50D (+)
Eyes: Hareline Double Pupil Eyes - Large Yellow/White & Black (+)
Tail1: Nature's Spirit Prime Marabou - Yellow (+)
Tail2: Nature's Spirit Prime Marabou - Brown (+)
Body: Cactus Chenille - Rootbeer (+)
Hackle: Variant Neck Hackle - Yellow (+)
Legs: Silicon Streamer Legs - Magic Lemon (+)
Head: Ice Dub - Pheasant Tail (+)
Overwing: Bruiser Blend - Canary (+)


Olive/White

Hook: Daiichi 2461 #2 (+)
Thread: Veevus GSP - 50D (+)
Eyes: Hareline Double Pupil Eyes - Large Yellow/White & Black (+)
Tail1: Nature's Spirit Prime Marabou - Olive (+)
Tail2: Nature's Spirit Prime Marabou - White (+)
Body: Cactus Chenille - Pearl (+)
Hackle: Variant Neck Hackle - Olive (+)
Legs: Silicon Streamer Legs - Olive Gold (+)
Head: Ice Dub - Olive Brown (+)
Overwing: Bruiser Blend - Brown Olive (+)


Brown/White

Hook: Daiichi 2461 #2 (+)
Thread: Veevus GSP - 50D (+)
Eyes: Hareline Double Pupil Eyes - Large Yellow/White & Black (+)
Tail1: Nature's Spirit Prime Marabou - Brown (+)
Tail2: Nature's Spirit Prime Marabou - White (+)
Body: Cactus Chenille - Pearl (+)
Hackle: Variant Neck Hackle - Chinchilla (+)
Legs: Silicon Streamer Legs - Speckled Copper Brown (+)
Head: Ice Dub - Pheasant Tail (+)
Overwing: Bruiser Blend - Brown (+)


Midnight Fire

Hook: Daiichi 2461 #2 (+)
Thread: Veevus GSP - 50D (+)
Eyes: Hareline Double Pupil Eyes - Large Black/ Chartreuse & Black (+)
Tail1: Nature's Spirit Prime Marabou - Black (+)
Body: Cactus Chenille - Black (+)
Schlappen - Black (+)
Legs: Silicon Streamer Legs - Black/Chrome Red (+)
Head: Ice Dub - Black (+)
Overwing: Bruiser Blend - Midnight Fire (+)


Oil Slick Buzzer

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A Flashy Chironomid Pupa

Weighted (top) and Un-weighted (bottom) Oil Slick Buzzers

It's really hard for me to pass up a chance to fish Chironomids -- especially when fish are actively cruising and picking off the Chironomid pupa as they ascend through the water column. So each year as I refill my buzzer boxes, I usually end up tweaking a few existing patterns or try something altogether new. 

A couple of years back, as I was messing with a new (to me) type of flashabou, I realized it was more translucent than some of the other flashabou or tinsel materials I'd tied with before. Then the gears began to turn when I started to wonder how it would look wrapped over different colors of thread or wire. Turns out the thread color didn't matter as much, but the wire sure did.

And when you tightly wrap the flashabou over the wire, it creates a sorta "oil slick" looking reflective translucent effect. So when I needed a name for this pattern, I turned to the fly naming Ninja, Cheech, and that's what stuck.
The black wire version (2nd from right) creates a bit of a blue hue

Cool looking colors aside, what I have now realized after fishing this for a couple of years is that I've caught more fish on this pattern than really any other buzzer (chironomid) pattern I use.
The inspiration behind the Oil Slick Buzzer: A pupating chironomid 


Oil Slick Buzzer-eating chunky brown trout
As far as materials go, it's a simple one, but it's important you get the right flashabou (or tinsel if you choose).

Material List


Hook: Fulling Mill Czech Nymph Hook #12 (+)
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten, 2.3mm, Jet Black (+)
Thread: Danville 70 Denier, Black (+)
Body: Saltwater Flashabou, Mirage Opal (+)
Under-Body Ribbing: UTC Ultra Wire, BR, Red (+)
                                or UTC Ultra Wire, BR, Black (+)
Wing Buds: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Orange, Med (+)
Flash Back: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Blue, Lrg (+)
Breathers: McFlylon, White (+)
Coating: Loon Fluorescing UV Clear Fly Finish (+)

Other tools from the tutorial:
Stonfo Hackle Pliers  (+)





Masked Marauder

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two tone stone


Masked Marauder variation


I have been intrigued by stoneflies for the last few years, and I take great joy in fishing them in fast water that is often passed up by anglers searching for hatches and dragging the bottom of the stream with micro flies.  Most anglers where I live are intent on fishing smaller flies in the slower runs, and while they catch fish, they typically pass up bigger stoneflies and faster water all together.  Any time spent in the riffles with a seine will quickly reveal how many stoneflies there are, and how they must be a significant food source.  Those seine samples also taught me that golden stoneflies are completely two toned - dark on top, and light on bottom.  That seems like it would be very obvious, but most commercially tied golden stonefly nymphs have a big ol' gold bead at the head.  Yes they catch fish... BUT, I was obsessed on making the whole thing two toned.  This is why I started pulling thin skin or skinny skin over the bead, and after just a few experimental flies, I knew that it had the look that I was looking for and the fish agreed.

Brown Trout taken on a Masked Marauder style stonefly

The Masked Marauder is more of an idea than an exact recipe, and the key to these flies is that they need to be completely two toned.  A variety of materials can be used for the abdomen including marabou, dubbing, chenille, and larva lace.  The thorax can be a variety of dubbings and hot spots can be added at will.  The tail and legs can be various materials, but I typically use round rubber legs, sili legs, or biots.  Tie this bug to match your naturals, and more than likely it will catch some fish for you.

~Cheech

Buy the Masked Marauder (HERE)




Updated Recipe:

Golden Stone

Hook: Daiichi 1710 #10 (+)
Thread: Danville's 70 - Brown (+)
Bead: 3.8mm tungsten - Gold (+)
Weight: Lead Free Wire - .020 (+)
Tails: Nature's Spirit Turkey Biots - Callibaetis (+)
Body/Thorax: Arizona Mega Synthetic Dubbing - Golden Stone (+)
Ribbing: UTC Wire SM - Copper (+)
Flash: Veevus Holographic Tinsel Med- Copper (+)
Wingcase: MFC Skinny Skin - Mottled Brown (+)
Legs: Grizzly Micro Legs - Rootbeer (+)


Belly Scratcher Tube Fly - Rainbow Trout Version

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You Need Some Tubes in Your Life

Belly Scratcher Tube Fly

I just realized that the title of this post seems like a gadget sold on an infomercial.. "Do you ever have trouble scratching your own belly??!!?? Well today is your lucky day!!!!" Sorry to disappoint those of you who have problems scratching your itchy belly, but this post is about a tube fly.  

Perch Flavor
I was intent on showing Curtis that he really needed to fish conventional gear in the thick reeds that surrounded the boat that day.  It was early summer and the bass had just finished spawning - enough for them to start to hunt for food again.  My baitcaster setup was rigged "properly" with 50 pound braided line, a high speed reel, and a hollow bodied frog that I had custom colored and could get to "walk the dog." Curtis had his Sage Bass rod rigged up with a TUBE fly of all things.  It was his Deflectinator fly that wobbled and vibrated due it's backward cone at the head.  Just like all of Curtis' flies that proceed to kick my butt, I said something to the effect that it was a stupid fly and started bombing my frog.  Curtis rigged his tube fly with a Gamakatsu weedless hook designed for fishing Senkos and I'll be damned...  that tube fly swam right through the weeds and snot just like it was supposed to and caught plenty of fish.  That tube fly proved to be a viable way to tie a truly weedless fly pattern that could be fished in heavy cover, and in doing so, it kind of piqued my interest in tube flies.

My first tube fly fish.
8 or 9 years later was literally the first time I decided that my interest had been piqued enough.  It was  earlier this year (2016) when Curtis and I were at a tying Expo in Steelheadlandia AKA Albany, Oregon when I tied my first tube fly.  We were sharing a booth with Loon Outdoors and we tied along side Matt Callies, Jeremiah Houle (AKA Super), and Tom Rangner (AKA Tony Ranger) for two days.  Traditional Tom stuck to the steelhead basics with a custom flavor, but Matt and Super ruined me with their cool tube-ish creations that seemed to welcome any type of material that they were throwing at them.  I think I was under the same impression as a lot of trout guys who are looking into tube tying for the first time.  It seemed like I needed a whole bunch of special gear to do it, it seemed like I needed a fancy two handed spey thinger, it seemed like there wasn't much application for trout or bass, and... I was too stubborn/lazy to try it.  At the end of the show I sneaked back to Super's vise and tied what would be my first tube fly that resembled an intruder.  The lights went on, and I started dreaming up how I was going to use this system.

Bluegill Flavor
Luckily for us, Bruce from Pro Sportfisher was also at that show and we were able to see the very latest and greatest from the tube fly tying front.  The Pro Sportfisher system breaks down tube tying to it's most simple of forms.  You put a needle in your vise, you shove a tube on the needle, and you tie a fly.  No other attachment needed.  This is not to say that you won't want to grab up some of the "big boy lego" attachments as Bruce Berry  and Morten Bundgard of Pro Sportfisher call them.  Tube flies on the Pro Sportfisher system can be as simple or complex as you want them.  They can be fished for Taimen in Mongolia to Bluegill in Montucky, and they flat out catch fish.

Check out all of the Pro Sportfisher Stuff we have HERE 

Why tubes?  There are several reasons you might choose to fish a tube fly, but the top two that I can think of are: 1- Leverage when fighting a bigger fish.  If your shank is longer, there is a greater chance of a larger fish using leverage and throwing your hook.  A short shank hook stays buttoned much better.  2- Hook longevity.  For example...  If you are fishing a streamer and you hit the hook point on a rock it will dull quickly.  Sure you can sharpen it, but it will probably not have that factory edge on it anymore.  With a tube, you just tie on a new hook.

The Belly Scratcher Minnow needs no introduction, so here's the video on how to tie it on a tube.  Happy tying, and I hope your interest in tube flies has been properly piqued...  If it is, blame Matt, Super, Curtis, Tom, Bruce, and Morten... just not me!

~ Cheech 


Recipes:

Rainbow Trout

Tube: Pro Sportfisher Micro Tube - Clear (+)
Hook Guide: Pro Sportfisher Medium - Clear (+)
Thread: Veevus GSP 50D - White (+)
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Bead 4.6mm - Gold (+)
Bead Connection: Articulation Wire (+)
Body1: Ice Dub - Minnow Belly (+)
Body2: Senyo's Fusion Dub - Pink Lady (+)
Body3: Ostrich Herl - Pink (+)
Body4: Black Barred Rabbit Strip - Olive Variant  (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend Dubbing: Brown Olive (+)
Head2: Bruiser Blend Jr. Dubbing: White (+)
Eyes: 3D Eyes 5/32 - Super Pearl (+)
Marker: Chartpak - Olive (+)
Marker: Ultra fine point sharpie - Black

Yellow Perch

Tube: Pro Sportfisher Micro Tube - Clear (+)
Hook Guide: Pro Sportfisher Medium - Clear (+)
Thread: Veevus GSP 50D - White (+)
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Bead 4.6mm - Gold (+)
Bead Connection: Articulation Wire (+)
Body1: Ice Dub - Minnow Belly (+)
Body2: Senyo's Fusion Dub - Eat a Peach (+)
Body3: Ostrich Herl - Olive (+)
Body4: Rabbit Strip - Olive Variant  (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend Dubbing: Brown Olive (+)
Head2: Bruiser Blend Jr. Dubbing: Canary (+)
Eyes: 3D Eyes 5/32 - Super Pearl (+)
Marker: Chartpak: Black (+)
Marker: Chartpak: Cadmium Orange (+)

Bluegill

Tube: Pro Sportfisher Micro Tube - Clear (+)
Hook Guide: Pro Sportfisher Medium - Clear (+)
Thread: Veevus GSP 50D - White (+)
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten Bead 4.6mm - Gold (+)
Bead Connection: Articulation Wire (+)
Body1: Ice Dub - Minnow Belly (+)
Body2: Senyo's Fusion Dub - Eat a Peach (+)
Body3: Senyo's Fusion Dub - Sky (+)
Body4: Ostrich Herl - Kingfisher Blue (+)
Body5: Rabbit Strip - Olive Variant  (+)
Head1: Bruiser Blend Dubbing: Brown Olive (+)
Head2: Bruiser Blend Jr. Dubbing: Cream (+)
Eyes: 3D Eyes 5/32 - Super Pearl (+)
Marker: Chartpak: Black (+)
Marker: Chartpak: Cadmium Orange (+)
Marker: Sharpie: Fluorescent Blue

Tools
Stonfo Dubbing Twister (+)
Pro Sportfisher Tubefly Needle (Mandrel) - Large (+)
Stonfo Comb and Brush (+)
Flush Wire Cutter (+)
Tear Mender Glue (+)
Loon Applicator Bottle (+)



Grey Boy Buzzer

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A Must-Have Chironomid Pupa


grey boy buzzer
Grey Boy Buzzer
If you haven't seen or fished the popular Grey Boy Buzzer, it's about time, as they say in Cheech's home town, you get all "lerned up".
 Either way, there's good reason it's a popular style chironomid pupa pattern -- it plain works. And by "work" I mean that it's easily becoming a staple in my fly box, right alongside the Oil Slick Buzzer and my standard Universal or the smaller quill bodied patterns.

And to put on my nerdly bug hat here, one of the reasons it does so well is that it's a spot-on imitation of a pupating chironomid as they ascend to the surface to hatch. Although there are many different color combinations you'll see in the naturals, one of the more common ones I see is the gray/white segments with black and/or red segment dividers that we're imitating with the Grey Boy.
Grey-boyish looking pupa

As with most of my pupa patterns, I'm fishing these with a strike indicator and hanging them anywhere from a foot to twelve feet or more below the indicator. Just switch it up until you find where the fish are feeding. Once you dial that in, it's usually on like Donkey Kong.





Finally, once again, the materials here are super-simple. I tie more of these with White UNI-Flexx, but the gray color also works very well. Just ask this fine colored up Colorado Cutthroat from the other day.



A colored Colorado Cutthroat who likes Chironomids

Material List

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Hook: Fulling Mill Czech Nymph Hook - 14      
Thread: Danville 70 Denier, Black      
Body Ribbing: UNI-Flexx White      
Under-Body Ribbing: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Cranberry SM      
Wing Buds: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Orange, MD      
Breathers: McFlylon - White      
Coating: Loon Fluorescing UV Clear      

Other tools from the tutorial:
Stonfo Hackle Pliers    


Mailman Brown Drake

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When dries aren't the answer


Mailman Brown Drakes
I still recall the take, the fish and the exact spot where I caught my first fish on the Mailman style Green drake pattern, which I wrote about here. It was memorable for a lot of reasons but on a day that began with fish hitting green drake duns with reckless abandon and transitioned to a more technical proposition, the Mailman pattern was the ticket in the end.

The takeaway from all this was that during the pre and post hatch times, I needed something more emerger or drowned adult style to cover my bases -- not a novel concept, I know, but a good reminder. The Mailman has a soft hackle appearance of sorts and is tied on a heavy enough hook to get it to sink below the surface to where fish are focusing efforts picking off emergers or adults that never got the chance to take off.

So I will fish this as a dropper from an adult pattern or just toss it solo at sub-surface feeding fish. Give it a try, it's a fun tie and fish seem to be keen on it.

Material List

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Hook: Fulling Mill Heavyweight Champ, Barbless - 12     
Thread: 8/0 UNI-Thread Waxed Midge - Camel     
Thorax: Hare'e Ice Dub - Golden Brown     
Body: Veevus Holographic Tinsel - Gold - Large     
Ribbing: UTC Ultra Wire - Brown - Small     
Ribbing: Nature's Spirit Ringneck Pheasant Center Tails - Natural     
Legs/Tail: Hungarian Partridge Feathers - Brown     
Wing Case: Montana Fly Company Skinny Skin - Mottled Brown     
Coating: Loon Fluorescing UV Clear Fly Finish     

Other tools from the tutorial:
Stonfo Comb/Brush Tool     

Silver Boy Buzzer

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You can't have too many chironomids


Silver Boy Buzzer
Ok, we've put out a few buzzer/chironomids this year and this will be the last one -- at least for a while. Similar to the Grey Boy, this "Silver Boy" variation is meant to imitate the pupa in its last push to get to the surface and get the heck out of dodge. In looking at the naturals, I see a lot of VERY silvery coloration -- especially in top few inches of the water column.

And while I can't say when or why you'd use this flashier version over something like the standard Grey Boy, I usually end up throwing two or three patterns (where permitted) and find which one is doing the best. The Oil Slick buzzer is another even more flashy pupa that I include in this mix to try and dial in what stage the fish are focusing on.

And similar to the Oil Slick, we're taking inspiration from this stage of the pupa where the silver "major" segments are most visible. 

Chironomid Pupa
Colorado Cutthroat who took a Silver Boy

Material List

 Add to Cart   View in store

Hook: Fulling Mill Czech Nymph Hook - 12      
Bead: Plummeting Tungsten - Jet Black - 2.3mm      
Thread: Danville 70 Denier, Black      
Body Ribbing: Veevus Holographic Tinsel, Med      
Under-Body Ribbing: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Cranberry SM      
Wing Buds: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Orange, MD      
Breathers: McFlylon - White      
Coating: Loon Fluorescing UV Clear      

Other tools from the tutorial:
Stonfo Hackle Pliers    


Davie McPhail's Sparse Midge Pupa

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Yes, you need this one too


Davie McPhail's Spare Midge Pupa
Last week I said it was the last chironomid pattern we'd post for a while. I lied. When I saw this pattern, I knew it was a winner. And after a weekend of catching fish on chironomids again (no, it doesn't get old), I'm always looking out for more winners.

Because we work with Fulling Mill and considering Davie McPhail has been working with them as of late, we decided to feature some of his patterns here (with his blessing of course).

If you've never heard of Davie, you live under a rock. He's arguably one of the best fly tyers on the planet. So clean, so consistent. And while you notice we typically stick to our own patterns for tutorials and posts here, we're going to look to expanding things to give some more variety and exposure out there.

With that said, here's the recipe and the tutorial...

Material List

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Hook: Fulling Mill Heavyweight Champ, Barbless - 10     
Thread: Danville Flat Waxed Nylon Thread - 70 Denier - Black     
Back: Mirage Flashabou - 3005 - Opal     
Thorax Cover: Veevus Holographic Tinsel - Red - Medium     
Ribbing: Danville Flat Waxed Nylon Thread - 70 Denier - Black     
Wing Buds: Stripped Goose Biots - Fl. Orange     
Coating: Loon Fluorescing UV Clear Fly Finish     
Coating: Hard As Hull Head Cement     


Pat's Rubber Legs - Variation

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Kick up a very popular trout pattern


I was first introduced to the Pat's Rubber Legs (AKA Girdle Bug, Pickle, Drifting Turd, etc,) about 10 years ago as I was fishing with a friend on a Utah river that was loaded with stoneflies.  We'll just say that he caught a ton of fish and I didn't...  Lots of Utah anglers that I know totally overlook stoneflies and go right for the typical microscopic tailwater midge stuff, but a few seine samples are enough to show them how healthy the stonefly population is here.  The Rubber Legs can be both very simple, and very maddening at the same time due to the unruliness of the rubber legs, so we show a trick in the video on how to easily tie them in, and how to keep them out of the way while you wrap the chenille.  I also add weight and a wingcase to this fly because I kind of can't help it...  The original pattern called for an unweighted body to allow for maximum movement in current, but I have been fishing them on a Euro rig, so I need it to be heavy.  anyway, this is a highly customizable pattern that is effective anywhere that fish eat chenille and rubber legs.

Cheech

 

Material List

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Hook: Daiichi 1730 - Bent Shank Nymph Hook - 6     
Thread: Danville Flat Waxed Nylon Thread - 70 Denier - Olive     
Weight: Lead Free Round Wire - .025     
Body: Speckled Chenille - Black/Dark Olive     
Legs/Tails/Antannae: Silicon Streamer Legs - Speckled Froggy Green     
Wing Case 1: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish - Thin (1/2 oz)     
Wing Case 2: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish - Thick (1/2 oz)     
Wing Case 3 : Loon Fly Tying Powder - Earthtone (Choc. Brown, Midnight, Pumpkin)     
Wing Case 4: Loon Fluorescing UV Clear Fly Finish     

Other tools from the tutorial:
F6010Loon UV Mega Light     

Grumpy Frumpy

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Is This The Hybrid Superfly?


*** Updated video and recipes.

Kicked up Grumpy Frumpy
Since we started this site we have gained a lot of new followers and subscribers, so this video is kind of a bonus.  We filmed it a while back, and did the traditional yellow/red color that I love to fish so much.  This one is my second favorite color and it has caught a lot of fish all over the country.  The original Grumpy Frumpy post is listed below if you are interested in how this fly was created.

~ Cheech

Buy the Grumpy Frumpy HERE

Material List

Purple/Chartreuse
Add to Cart  View in store

Hook: Daiichi 1180 - Standard Dry Fly Hook - 12     
Thread: Veevus Fly Tying Thread - Fl. Green - 10/0     
Tail: Sparkle Emerger Yarn - Brown     
Body: Nature's Spirit Bleached Dyed Peacock Sticks - Purple     
Hump: Fly Tying Foam - 2mm - Brown     
Wing: EP Fibers - White     
Hackle 1: Whiting Rooster Dry Fly 1/2 Cape - Bronze - Coachman Brown     
Hackle 2: Whiting Rooster Dry Fly 1/2 Cape - Bronze - Grizzly     
Legs: Senyo's Fusion Foil Legs - Barred Blue and Purple Foil - Micro     

Yellow/Red
Add to Cart  View in store
Hook: Daiichi 1180 - Standard Dry Fly Hook - 12     
Thread: Veevus Fly Tying Thread - Red - 10/0     
Tail: Sparkle Emerger Yarn - Brown     
Body: Nature's Spirit Bleached Dyed Peacock Sticks - PMD     
Hump: Fly Tying Foam - 2mm - Tan     
Wing: EP Fibers - White     
Hackle 1: Whiting Rooster Dry Fly 1/2 Cape - Bronze - Coachman Brown     
Legs: Senyo's Fusion Foil Legs - Barred Copper and Red Foil - Micro     


Other tools from the tutorial:

Loon Water Based Head Cement System     




Original Post:

Yellow/Red Grumpy Frumpy


Like most sane flyfishers of the world, I really enjoy fishing with big McGnarley attractor patterns.  I don't know if it's so fun because they are typically really big and easy to see, or if it's the satisfaction of getting the fish to eat something that isn't even remotely close to what they usually eat.  Some of my favorites of years past have been the Humpy, Royal Wulff, Madam X, Stimulator, Chernobyl Ant, etc etc.  I also love to fish cripples that maybe sit a bit lower in the water and have a more buggy profile, so the invent of the Royal Wulff Cripple was kind of the thing that set me off.  I loved the idea of taking a full-on attractor, and mixing it with something more realistic.  Many times I think of myself as a Fly Biologist (yes, they are ALIVE) and my duty at the vise is to create hybrid flies that will take over the fly universe...  Not really, but my experiment began...

I think everyone has tied a foam humpy before, so I started by tying in a synthetic tail, a foam hump, and a cripple style wing.  Bingo!  I had what I was calling a Fumpy at the time.  I was pretty excited to go fish them, but for the time being, they were stuck in limbo at my desk.  As the flies sat waiting for their turn in the starting lineup, I had another idea pop into my head at 3:00 am - "tie on a red band like a Royal Wulff!" I got out of bed and went back down stairs to attach the band.  NOW these flies were looking good, and they really needed some testing.  I called Bryan Gregson to get them into his hands.  I realized a long time ago that no matter how good you are at something, there is always someone out there who is better than you.  Bryan is one of those fishy dudes who has no patience for crappy ties that don't work, so I know that if the fly sucks he'll tell me about it.  Before I could meet up with him for delivery, I had another late night breakthrough - RUBBER LEGS.  I went back down stairs to attach legs to each fly, and the final product was something that gave me that "I'm on to something here" feeling.


Blonde Grumpy Frumpy


The delivery happened on a cool summer night where my wife and I were going to have some sushi at the place where Bryan worked.  I placed the offerings on a wasabi dish and slid them across the counter in exchange for a great meal that my wife still talks about to this day.  Andy Haley  was also working there, and I heard him yell across the room, "Hey Cheech, lets see this Grumpy Frumpy you have been telling us about." That is how the fly got it's name.  Thanks Andy.

Bry was headed to the north land to fish that weekend, and instead of the follow-up call telling me how I need to tweak the fly, it was a desperate call asking for more.  I knew the fly was going to take off.  Since that time, the Grumpy Frumpy has been tweaked in size and color to almost anything imaginable.  Yellow and red remains my favorite color, but peacock, lime green, purple, Kevin's Cat Puke, and tan are all viable contenders.  It also does well to match hatches when tied in sizes and colors to match baetis, midges, pmd's, yellow sallies, drakes, etc.



~ Cheech


Hi Vis Stimulator

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A Modern Spin on a Classic



The Stimulator is one of the classic trout flies that defines almost any dry fly box.  There is some debate on who first tied the Stimulator pattern (Slattery or Kaufmann), but Kaufmann was the guy who kind of improved the pattern and made it a widely popular fly.  Mostly fished as a stonefly adult, it actually fishes great as a general attractor pattern, and can be tied from size 18 to size 2 (size 12 to size 6 are probably the most popular.)  I usually have a few of them in my box, and I have been making a few modifications to them for the past two years so they fish they way I want them to.  The original way that I learned used a TMC 200R hook, which really doesn't lend itself well to a fly pattern that has hackle throughout the body.  I found that the hackle could impede hookups on the 200R because of the narrow hook gap.  For a long time I just tied them on a 2x long dry fly hook like the TMC 5212 or the Gamakatsu S10, but I have recently found a curved shank hook that has a much better gap...  The Daiichi 1260.  The other mods that I make on this fly are the tail (biots instead of hair) and the wing (para post material added on top of the hair.)  The most tricky part of this fly is the hair wing, but in this video I show a technique that should make tying in the wing much more manageable.  Also, feel free to substitute colors and types of dubbing, hackle, biots, etc...

~Cheech


Material List

Add to Cart  View in store

Hook: Daiichi 1260 Bead-Head Specialty Hook - 8     
Thread: 8/0 UNI-Thread Waxed Midge - Camel     
Tail: Nature's Spirit Turkey Biot Quills - Golden Stone     
Ribbing: UTC Ultra Wire - Olive - Small     
Body: Nature's Spirit Hare's Mask Dubbing - Gold     
Thorax: Nature's Spirit Hare's Mask Dubbing - Natural     
Wing: Nature's Spirit Stimulator Deer Hair - Gold     
Hackle: Whiting High & Dry Cape - Grizzly Dyed Golden Olive     
Overwing: Para Post Wing Material - White     

Brookies of Summer

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Heat-beating high country

High Country Brookie
When those 100 degree days roll around, we most often find ourselves headed to the
mountains for a respite from the heat and a chance to tussle with some decent Brookies (or Cutts or Tigers or Splake or whatever).
Below is a short little edit we did from an incredible callibaetis hatch wherein the Brook trout and a few Splake with a couple of Cutthroat were putting on the feedbag. We mostly fished the awesome Rio Midge Tip lines (long tips) and I'll venture to say easily one of the best stillwater lines we've thrown.

As usual, these trips usually involve gnarly roads, "roughing" it (i.e. comfy cots in a huge tent) and lots of fish.


Rigged and headed up
Camp dinner
Roughing it



Anyway, for those interested, here's a list of the flies that did some damage. And there's a few more we have on the docket for tutorials, so stay tuned.



Brook Trout Fly Patterns

  • The Chimera: Likely one of my favorite patterns and one of Cheech's most hated. (pay attention to the video). I usually fish it from an indicator but it can also be deadly stripped.
  • Deep Dish Callibaetis. Again a perennial brookie killer. Usually fished from an indicator.
  • Flashabaetis: This one was a pleasant surprise. As we ended up fishing midge tips for a good portion of the day, I went more for an unweighted pattern to allow the line to control my depth. This accounted for more of my fish this day than any other pattern.
  • More TBD. This trip was also great due to the fast we were testing lines and a number of new patterns as well. Cheech was rocking a couple of crazy-good callibaetis soft hackles and a few others. So keep your eyes peeled and we'll push some of those out here soon.



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